1650-1700 in fashion

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Fashion in the period 1650-1700 in Western European clothing is characterised by rapid change. Following the end of the Thirty Years' War and the Restoration of England's Charles II, military influences in men's clothing were replaced by a brief period of decorative exuberance which then sobered into the coat, waistcoat and breeches costume that would reign for the next century and a half. In the normal cycle of fashion, the broad, high-waisted silhouette of the previous period was replaced by a long, lean line with a low waist for both men and women. This period also marked the rise of the periwig as an essential item of men's fashion.

Women's fashion

Overview

The wide, high-waisted look of the previous period was gradually superseded by a long vertical line, with horizontal emphasis at the shoulder. Full, loose sleeves ended just below the elbow at mid century and became longer and tighter in keeping with the new trend. The body was tightly corseted, with a low, broad neckline and dropped shoulder. In later decades, the overskirt was drawn back and pinned up to display the petticoat, which was heavily decorated.

A daring new fashion arose for having one's portrait painted in undress, wearing a loosely fastened gown called a nightgown over a voluminous chemise, with tousled curls; the clothing in these portraits is not representative of what was worn on the street or at court.

Spanish court fashion remained out of step with the fashions that arose in France and England, and prosperous Holland also retained its own modest fashions, especially in headdress and hairstyles, as it had retained the ruff in the previous period.

The mantua

The mantua or manteau was a new fashion that arose in the 1680s. Instead of a bodice and skirt cut separately, the mantua hung from the shoulders to the floor (in the manner of gowns of earlier periods) and was worn looped and draped up over a contrasting petticoat and a stomacher. The mantua-and-stomacher resulted in a high, square neckline in contrast to the broad, off-the-shoulder neckline previously in fashion. The new look was decidely fussy, with bows, frills, ribbons, and other trim, but the short string of pearls and pearl earrings or eardrops worn since the 1650s remained popular.

Hunting and riding dress

In a June 1666 diary entry, Samuel Pepys describes the Maids of Honour in their riding habits of mannish coats, doublets, hats, and periwigs, "so that, only for a long petticoat dragging under their men's coats, nobody could take them for women in any point whatever". For riding side-saddle, the costume had a long, trailing petticoat or skirt. This would be looped up or replaced by an ankle-length skirt for shooting or walking.

Hairstyles and headgear

Early in the period, hair was worn in a bun at the back of the head with a cluster of curls framing the face. The curls grew more elaborate through the 1650s, then longer, until curls were hanging gracefully on the shoulder. In the 1680s hair was parted in the center with some height over the temples, and by the 1690s hair was unparted, with rows of curls stacked high over the forehead.

This hairstyle was often topped with a fontange, a frilly cap of lace wired to stand in vertical tiers with streamers to either side, named for a mistress of the French King. This was popular from the 1690s to the first few years of the 18th century.

Style gallery 1650-1680

Image:Charlotte von Hessen-Kassel um 1650.jpg|1 - 1650 Image:Gerard ter Borch d. J. 004.jpg|2 -1655 Image:Metsu virginal.jpg|3 - 1658-60 Image:Diego Velázquez 027.jpg|4 - 1659 Image:Sir Peter Lely 002.jpg|5 - c.1660 Image:Caspar_Netscher_003.jpg|6 - 1662 Image:Margaret of Austria mourning 1666.jpg|7 - 1666 Image:Elizabeth and Mary Freake.jpg|8 - 1671-74

1. [German fashion] of 1650 shows a smooth, tight, conical satin bodice with a dropped shoulder. Slashed sleeves are caught with jeweled clasps over voluminous chemise sleeves.
2. [Rear view] of a Dutch jacket-bodice of 1655 shows the tabbed skirts and the curved side-back seams.
3. [Young Dutch girl] wears a rose jacket-bodice and a plan pink petticoat. Her hair is worn in a wound braid with small curls over her ears. 1658-60.
4. [Spanish court fashion] adapted the cartwheel farthingale late and retained it long after it had disappeared elsewhere. Margaret of Spain, age 8, 1659.
5. [Two Ladies of the Lake Family] wear satin nightgowns over shifts or chemises with voluminous sleeves. Their hair is worn in masses of ringlets to the shoulders on either side, and both wear large pearl eardrops.
6. [Dutch lacemaker]'s jacket-bodice has a dropped shoulder line and full, three-quarter length sleeves cartridge-pleated at shoulder and cuff. Her indoor cap has a circular back anhood is embroidered. Her shoes have thick heels and square toes, now somewhat old-fashioned.
7. [Mourning dress] of unrelieved black with long sleeves, cloak and hood. Margaret of Spain wears her hair parted to one side and severely bound in braids, 1666.
8. [Lingering Puritan influence] appears in this portrait of a Boston matron: she wears a lace-trimmed linen collar that covers her from the neck down with the fashionable short string of pearls, and she covers her hair with hood-like cap, 1671-74.

Style gallery 1680-1700

Image:Mary of modena lg.jpg|1 - 1680 Image:Dorothybrownlow.jpg|2 - 1680s-90s Image:Coello 1690.jpg|3 - c.1690 Image:Mary ii england.JPG|4 - c.1690 Image:Manteau.jpg|5 - 1685-90 Image:Anna maria luisa de medici hunting dress.jpg|6 - 1690s Image:Mailly.jpg|7 - 1698

1. [Mary of Modena], second wife of James II of Great Britain, wears a nightgown fastened with jeweled clasps over a simple chemise, 1680. Her hair curls over either temple, and long curls hang on her shoulders.
2. [Dorothy Mason, Lady Brownlow] in fashionable undress. Her nightgown is casually unfastened at the breast, and her chemise sleeves are caught up in puffs, probably with drawstrings.
3. [Spanish court fashion] of c. 1690 shows a long, rigidly corseted line with a broad neckline and long sleeves.
4. [Mary II] of England. By 1690, hair was dressed high over her forehead with curls dangling behind.
5. [Contemporary French fashion plate] of a manteau or mantua, 1685-90.
6. [The Electress Palatine] (Anna Maria Luisa de' Medici) in hunting dress, probably mid-to-late 1690s. She wears a long, mannish coat with wide cuffs and a matching petticoat over a high-necked bodice (Pepys calls it a doublet) with long tight sleeves. She wears a lace-trimmed cravat and a tricorne hat with ostrich plumes.
7. [Comtesse de Mailly], 1698, wears court fashion: Her mantua has elbow-length cuffed sleeves over the lace-ruffled sleeves of her chemise. The trained skirt is looped back to reveal a petticoat. She wears elbow-length gloves and a cap with a high lace fontange. She has a fur muff on her right wrist, trimmed with a ribbon bow, and carries a fan. She wears the short string of pearls that remained fashionable throughout this period.

Men’s Fashion

Overview

With the end of the Thirty Years' War, the fashions of the 1650s and early 1660s imitated the new peaceful and more relaxed feeling in Europe. The military boots gave way to shoes and a mania for baggy breeches, short coats, and hundreds of yards of ribbon set the style. The breeches (see Petticoat breeches) became so baggy that Samuel Pepys wrote in his diary: “And among other things, met with Mr. Townsend, who told of his mistake the other day to put both his legs through one of his Knees of his breeches, and so went all day.” (April 1661) The wide breeches that made such an error possible were soon being gathered at the knee: Pepys noted, 19 April 1663 "this day put on my close-kneed coloured suit, which, with new stockings of the colour, with belt, and new gilt-handled sword, is very handsome." This era was also one of great variation and transition. By 1680, a more sober uniform-like outfit of three pieces: coat, waistcoat, and breeches became the norm. It is actually this outfit from which our modern three piece suit derives.

Coat and Waistcoat

The unfitted looser fit of the 1640s continued into the 1650s. In the 1650s, sleeves ranged from above to below the elbow. The sleeves could be slashed, unslashed, or dividing into two parts and buttoned together. The length of the coat reached the waist but by the late 1650s and early 1660s, the coat became very short, only reaching the bottom of the rib cage, much like a bolero jacket. During the 1660s, the sleeves varied a lot from elbow length to no sleeves at all. The coat could be worn opened or buttoned in the front. One common factor were many yards of ribbon loops arranged on the shoulders and the lower parts of the sleeves.

A longer and rather baggy coat (still with sleeves rarely going below the elbow) made an appearance in the early 1660s and as the decade progressed became the most popular coat. By the late 1660s, an upturned cuff became popular although the sleeves had still remained above the elbows. By the 1670s, a waistcoat was worn under the coat. It usually consisted of a contrasting color and had a different texture or pattern. It was a long garment which by the 1680s reached just above the knees. With the end of the 1670s the sleeves became longer and the coat more fitted. The 1680s saw larger upturned cuffs and the waist of the coat became much wider. The coat could have lapels or none. This coat is known as the justaucorps. The pockets on both sides of the justaucorps were arranged vertically until the 1690s when they became horizontal. The waistcoat could be sleeveless or have long sleeves. Typically, a long-sleeved waistcoat was worn in winter for added warmth. By the mid 1680s, ribbons were reduced to one side of the shoulder until by the 1690s, they were gone.

Shirt, Collar and Cravat

The ruffled long-sleeved white shirt remained the only constant throughout the period, although less of it was seen with the advent of the waistcoat.

During the early to mid 1650s, a rather small falling collar was in fashion. This increased in size and encompassed much of the shoulders by 1660. Cravats around the neck started to be worn during the early 1660s (initially with the falling collar). By the mid 1660s, the collar had disappeared with just the cravat remaining sometimes tied with a small bow of ribbon. Red was the most common color for the bow, although pink, blue, and other colors were also used. By the 1670s, the bow of ribbons had increased in size and in the 1680s, the bow of ribbons became very large and intricate with many loops of ribbon. By the mid 1690s, the very large bow of ribbons was discarded. Also, a new style of cravat made its appearance in the 1690s, the Steinkerk (named after the Battle of Steenkerque in 1692). Before, the cravat was always worn flowing down the chest; the Steinkerk cravat looped through a button hole of the coat.

Breeches and Stockings

The previous decade saw Spanish breeches as the most popular. These were stiff, uncollected breeches which fell above the knee and were rather moderately fitted. While they remained very popular in Spain throughout the 1650s, in the rest of Western Europe, much looser, uncollected breeches, called petticoat breeches became the most popular. As the 1650s progressed, they became larger and looser, very much giving the impression of a lady’s petticoat. They were usually decorated with many yards of ribbon around the waist and around the ungathered knee on the outside of the leg. Alongside the petticoat breeches, a collected but still loose fitted breeches called rhinegraves, were also worn. By the early 1660s, their popularity surpassed petticoat breeches. They were usually worn with an overskirt over them. The overskirt was heavily decorated with ribbon on the waist and the bottom of the skirt. Its length was usually just above the knee, but could also extend past the knee so that the rhinegraves underneath could not be seen and only the bottom of the stocking-tops was visible. With the rising popularity of the longer coat and waistcoat, the large collected rhingraves and overskirt were abandoned in favor of more close fitting breeches. By the late 1670s, close fitted breeches were worn with the stockings worn over them and above the knee, being gartered with a garter below the knee. With the long waistcoat and stockings worn over the knee, very little of the breeches could be seen. A possible reason that the stockings were worn over the knee, was to give the impression of longer legs since the waist coat fell very low, just above the knee. The breeches tended to be of the same material as the coat. The stockings varied in color.

Footwear and Accessories

Shoes again became the most popular footwear during the 1650s. Although boots managed to linger on for a bit and then later only used for riding. Boots were responsible for the fashion of wearing boot-hose and stocking-tops. Due to the abrasiveness of wearing boots, stockings would wear away quickly. So boot-hose were worn over the stocking. Even when boots fell out of fashion, the boot-hose remained. They usually were of a contrasting color to the stockings underneath. Usually stocking-tops were the part of the boot-hose displayed over the boots and flowed down them. They were made of lace and added additional ornamentation. These became so popular that were worn even without boots or boot-hose. Boot-hose lasted well in the mid 1660s, attached right under where the rhinegraves were gathered below the knee. Shoes from the 1650s through the 1670s tended to be square toed and bit long in appearance. Usually the shoes were tied with ribbon and decorated with bows. By the 1680s, the shoe became a bit more fitted; the heel increased in height (with red heels being very popular), and only a small ribbon if any remained.

The baldric (a sword hanger worn across one shoulder) was worn until the mid 1680s, when it was replaced by the sword belt (a sword hanger worn across the hips).

Hairstyles

Throughout the period, men wore their hair long with flowing curls well past the shoulders. The bangs were usually combed forward and allowed to flow over the forehead a bit. Although men had worn wigs for years to cover up thinning hair or baldness, the popularity of the wig or periwig as standard wardrobe is usually credited to King Louis XIV of France. Louis started to go bald at a relatively young age and had to cover up his baldness with wigs. His early wigs very much imitated what were the hairstyles of the day, but they gave a thicker and fuller appearance than natural hair. Due to the success of the wigs, other men started to wear wigs as well. By 1680, a part in the middle of the wig became the norm. The hair on either side of the part continued to grow in the 1680s until by the 1690s two very high pronounced points developed on the forehead. As well, during the 1680s, the wig was divided into three parts: the front including the center part and the long curls which fell well past the shoulders, the back of the head which was combed rather close to the head, and a mass of curls which flowed down the shoulders and back. The curls of the wig throughout the 1660s until 1700 were rather loose and flowing. Tighter curls would not make their appearance until after 1700. Every natural color of wig was possible. King Louis XIV tended to favor a brown wig. His son, Monseigneur was well known for wearing blond wigs.

Hats and Headgear

Hats vary greatly during this period. Hats with very tall crowns were popular until the end of the 1650s. The brims varied as well. Hats were decorated with feathers. By the 1660s, a very small hat with a very low crown, little brim, and large amount of feathers was popular amongst the French courtiers. Later in the 1660s, very large brims and moderate crowns became popular. Sometimes one side of the brim would be turned up. These continued fashionable well into the 1680s. From the 1680s until 1700, various styles and combinations of upturned brims were in fashion, from one brim upturned to three brims upturned (the tricorne). Even the angle at which the brims were situated on the head varied. Sometimes with a tricorne, the point would meet over the forehead or it would be set at a 45 degree angle from the forehead.

Style gallery

Image:Dutch1658.JPG|1 - 1658 Image:Dutch 1658.JPG|2 - 1658 Image:Louis 1663.JPG|3 - 1663 Image:Louisc1660s.JPG|4 - 1660s Image:Louis c1665.JPG|5 - 1665 Image:French 1675.JPG|6 - 1675 Image:1678.JPG|7 - 1678 Image:Louis circa1680s.JPG|8 - 1680s

1. [Dutch fashions], 1658. White boothose, petticoat breeches
2. [Dutch fashions], 1658. Note tall hat with dyed ostrich plumes.
3. [French court style], 1663, showing very short coat and masses of ribbon loops.
4. [French court style], 1660s. Short coat with short sleeves.
5. [French court style], 1665. The hat has a broad brim and shallow crown, elaborate stocking-tops, rhinegraves, and overskirt.
6. [French], 1675, with red bow under cravat.
7. [Long coat] of 1678. The coat has vertically-placed pockets on the long skirts, stockings worn over the breeches.
8. [French court style], 1680s. Vertical coat pockets and tricorne hat, stockings worn over the breeches.

See also

• History of Western fashion

External links

• [Baroque Fashion 1600s]
• [Costume Hisory: Cavalier/Puritan]

References

• Arnold, Janet: Patterns of Fashion 1 (cut and construction of women's clothing, 1660-1860), Wace 1964, Macmillan 1972. Revised metric edition, Drama Books 1977. ISBN 089676026X
• Ashelford, Jane: The Art of Dress: Clothing and Society 1500-1914, Abrams, 1996. ISBN 0810963175
• Black, J. Anderson and Madge Garland: A History of Fashion, Morrow, 1975. ISBN 0688028934
• Brooke, Iris: Western European Costume II, Theatre Arts Books, 1966.
• de Marly, Diana: "Undress in the Œuvre of Lely", The Burlington Magazine, November 1978.
• Payne, Blanche: History of Costume from the Ancient Egyptians to the Twentieth Century, Harper & Row, 1965. No ISBN for this edition; ASIN B0006BMNFS

Preceded by: 1600-1650

History of Western Fashion 1650-1700

Followed by: 1700-1750

 

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