Big wave surfing
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Big wave surfing is a discipline in surfing where riders paddle into waves which are at least 20 feet high, on surf boards known as guns or Rhino chargers. The bigger the wave, the faster it travels, and the bigger the surf board needed to catch it. A larger board allows a rider to paddle fast enough to catch the wave and has the advantage of being more stable, but it also limits their maneuverability.
This discipline in surfing should not be confused with a cross-over sport known as tow-in surfing. While many riders participate in both sports, they remain very distinct activities.
Hazards of big wave surfing
In a big wave wipeout, a breaking wave can push surfers down 20 to 50 feet below the surface. Once they stop spinning around, they have to quickly regain their equilibrium and figure out which way is up. They may have less than 20 seconds to get to the surface for a breath of air before the next wave hits them. Additionally, the water pressure at a depth of 20-50 feet can be strong enough to rupture one's eardrums. Strong currents and water action at those depths can also slam a surfer into a reef or even the floor, which can result in severe injuries or even death.One of the greatest dangers is the risk of being held down by two or more consecutive waves without the chance to reach the surface for air. Surviving a triple hold-down is extremely difficult.
Famous surfing spots
Noted big wave surfers
- Laird Hamilton
- Eddie Aikau
- Ken Bradshaw
- Jeff Clark
- Shane Dorian
- Mark Foo
- Greg Noll
- Milton and Michael Willis
- Ross Clarke-Jones
- Cheyne Horan
Big wave surfing movies
- Riding Giants (2004)
- Billabong Odyssey (2004)
References
- Matt Warshaw: Maverick's: the story of big-wave surfing, Chronicle Books, ISBN 081182652X
External links
- [Wave Warrior] (pbs.org)
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