Cheesesteak
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History
The invention of the cheesesteak is claimed by Philadelphian Pat Olivieri who combined chopped-up steak and put it in a bun. He began selling the new concoctions at his hot dog stand. They became so popular he opened up his own cheesesteak restaurant in 1930. This restaurant still operates today as Pat's King of Steaks (v.i.).
Pat's website calls the 1930 preparation a "steak sandwich" (not a "cheesesteak") and says that "as the years passed, both employees and customers alike demanded change . . . cheese was added." Joe Vento of Geno's(v.i.) claims that he was the first to add cheese.
Ingredients and Preparation
Steak is either sliced into thin or thick pieces and placed on a griddle which has been lightly oiled. Locations that sell cheesesteaks cooked with thin slices of steak will grill the steak in a large pile, chopping and flipping the steak with a large metal spatula until cooked to a light brown. The thick pieces of steak, due to their need to be cooked more thoroughly, will be set in a single layer on the grill and flipped until brown. The meat is then transferred to a long roll, typically a 6 inch (15 cm) or 12 inch (30 cm) piece of French or Italian bread. The bread is sliced lengthwise to form a cradle, similar to a hot dog bun. Along the inner sides of the sliced roll one of three cheeses is placed. The cheese is either melted beforehand by a warmer or is melted by the heat of the freshly cooked steak.In the Philadelphia area, cheesesteaks are often made with rolls from the Philadelphia-based Amoroso Baking Company, commonly known as Amoroso Rolls. (Pat's rolls are made by the Vilotti-Pisanelli bakery). Pat's: uses Vilotti-Pisanelli rolls, proprietor advocates Whiz, uses thin-sliced rib-eye "cow meat" [sic]. Geno's: uses Amoroso rolls, proprietor advocates American or provolone, uses rib-eye steer. In general, "the real controversy is chopped versus nonchopped." Re bread, quotes Pat's proprietor: "There's something about the bread," says Junior. "It's the altitude and the humidity of this area, and the dirty water from the Schuylkill River." Locals believe there is something about Schuylkill Punch, nickname for Philadelphia's drinking water, which, by its alkalinity, makes the rolls distinctively flaky and airy. (Although Philadelphia's tap water is known locally as "Schuylkill Punch" and some proprietors have been known to refer to it as "dirty water," that's mostly tongue-in-cheek since the water is actually sourced from both the Delware and Schuylkill Rivers and is purified to a greater level of quality than in most cities, regularly winning taste tests even against leading bottled water products.)
A cheesesteak may include other optional ingredients such as grilled onions, sautéed green peppers, and mushrooms. Some menus include hot sauce, ketchup, or pizza sauce (a Pizza Steak, often with mozzarella as the cheese). A popular variation is the chicken cheesesteak, which uses thinly sliced chicken, also sautéed on a griddle.
Cheese
American cheese, provolone, and Cheez Whiz are the three major cheeses and are available for steaks at most places. Swiss and cheddar are available at a few locations, and any place that also sells pizza will substitute mozzarella. A cheesesteak is even available without cheese and is simply called a steak sandwich.Cheez Whiz
Cheez Whiz, first marketed in 1952, was not yet available for the original 1930 version, but it has come to achieve some popularity. A common order is "Whiz, wit", a cheesesteak with Cheez Whiz and fried onions. "Wit" is an approximation to the South Philadelphian Italian-immigrant pronunciation of "with," which is how the word is actually spelled on some menus.In fact, a 1986 New York Times article called Cheez Whiz "the sine qua non of cheesesteak connoisseurs."The New York Times, May 21, 1986, p. C6 "The Cheese Steak: An Original" In a 1985 interview, Frank Olivieri (Pat Olivieri's nephew) said that he uses "the processed cheese spread familiar to millions of parents who prize speed and ease in fixing the children's lunch for the same reason, because it is fast."The New York Times, November 16, 1985, p. 10: "About Philadelphia: Where Cheesesteaks are King, One Family Has Assumed the Crown" He went on to say that "American cheese takes longer to melt" and made clear his preference for Cheez Whiz over other unnamed, fast-melting cheese spreads.
A recipe published by Pat's King of Steaks says, with regard to cheese, "We recommend Cheez Whiz®; American or Provolone works fine." The proprietor of Geno's considers provolone or American to be authentic, but a food writer notes the "ascendancy of Whiz," which is "nearly synonymous with cheesesteak" and observes that "there isn't a decent steak place in Philadelphia that doesn't offer it, including Geno's."op. cit. An article in Fortune says that after Pat's introduced it, Cheese Whiz became "the topping of choice."op. cit.
American
American cheese, with its mild flavor and medium consistency, is another favorite on cheesesteaks. Some places melt the American cheese to achieve a Cheez-Whiz-like consistency, while others just put freshly cut slices under the meat.Provolone
Provolone of the mild, unaged variety is also almost universally offered. However, a Los Angeles reporter claimed that "provolone is the cheesesteak cheese, preferably an extra-sharp provolone with a distinctly savage bite. A cheesesteak is supposed to hurt, and it takes more than those fried dry Japanese chilies that Pat’s offers as a condiment.... In Philadelphia, I’ve heard, Cheez Whiz is often considered a tourist affectation, the kind of thing ordered by a person more concerned with what people might think of him than with what he might be putting into his mouth."Jonathan Gold, 2004, September 3-9 issue of LA Weekly: [Ask Mr. Gold] Detailed analysis of Bush and Kerry's cheesesteak preferences and a strong opinion on provolone.Others
Other varieties of cheese may be offered—a 1986 New York Times article mentioned a Philadelphia establishment that serves "mesquite-grilled cheese steak with Jarlsberg cheese"—but traditionalists scorn such newfangled modes of preparation. A few establishments have begun offering the new low-fat cheeses as health-conscious alternatives.A steak sandwich topped with pizza sauce and sliced or crumbled mozzarella constitutes a pizza steak, which is often placed briefly in a pizza oven or under a broiler to melt and lightly brown the cheese. Sometimes, pepperoni is added.
Some vendors offer plain cheddar as well, though these sandwiches are sometimes called "Cheesy Beef" sandwiches rather than "cheesesteaks."
Ordering Etiquette
In shops in Philadelphia that sell primarily cheesesteaks, there is defined protocol for ordering a cheesesteak, consisting of the desired cheese and whether fried onions will ("wit") or will not ("witout") be added. For example, "I'd like a provolone wit," is an order for a cheesesteak with provolone cheese and fried onions on top.[link] Orders for additional toppings, such as sauteed mushrooms or peppers, are usually added at the end, e.g. "I'd like an American witout and peppers." Some shops will refuse or delay service to customers who order incorrectly. Shops that sell cheesesteaks in addition to other items, such as pizza shops, lunch trucks or delis, usually do not follow this etiquette.Cheesy politics
In the 2004 presidential campaign, candidate John Kerry, on a visit to Pat's Steaks in South Philadelphia, committed the faux pas of ordering a cheesesteak with Swiss cheese. According to the Philadelphia Daily News, "reporters snickered," because "in Philadelphia, ordering Swiss on a cheesesteak is like rooting for Dallas at an Eagles game. It isn't just politically incorrect; it could get you a poke in the nose."[Philadelphia Daily News] story on the Kerry contretempsIn 2005, Massachusetts Governor Mitt Romney turned up his nose at a cheesesteak wagered by Pennsylvania Governor Ed Rendell in the traditional pre-Super Bowl bet between leaders of the states represented in the game. Rendell later told reporters, "He said the cheesesteak had no nutritional value."
Famous Locations
Among all the Philadelphia cheesesteak eateries, Pat's and Geno's Steaks are the best known. The famous rivals are located across the street from each other on 9th Street and Passayunk Avenue in South Philadelphia.
- The hub of the cheesesteak universe is a South Philadelphia triangle where Pat's King of Steaks (est. 1930), birthplace of the cheesesteak, stands in an eternal face-off with across-the-street rival Geno's Steaks (est. 1966).op. cit.
- Vento uses words like "arrogant" and "idiot" to describe his opponent, and dismisses Pat's steaks. (So why do so many people eat them? "You can acquire a taste for bad food," he says.) Olivieri, who went to a Quaker high school, refuses to be drawn into a shouting match. "I don't even call him a competitor," he sniffs.op. cit.
Both Pat's and Geno's are open 24 hours a day. The establishments can frequently be seen packed with long lines of hungry people, even during the late hours of the night.
For other famous cheesesteak restaurants, see "Best of Philly" winners below. But keep in mind that the famous shops are not necessarily better than others. As Patti Labelle notes, "when we were growing up, Llona and I always went to the same little shop to get ours—this twenty-four-hour hole-in-the-wall that made the best ones in Philly." [p. 25]
Pat's King of Steaks
See Main Article: Pat's Steaks
Pat's Steaks, founded in 1930 by Pat Olivieri, is said to be the first cheesesteak establishment. It is best known for using finely chopped beef, in contrast to the larger chunks used by primary competitor Geno's Steaks.
Geno's Steaks
See Main Article: Geno's Steaks
Geno's Steaks, founded in 1966 in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, is recognized as one of the most famous cheesesteak selling establishments. It is best known for using thicker chunks of beef as opposed to the finely chopped method used by long time rival Pat's Steaks. Geno's stoked controversy in the Spring of 2006 by displaying a sign saying that all orders must be made in English.
Best of Philly award winners
This is a list of establishments in Philadelphia that have won Best of Philly awards for cheesesteak.
- Tony Luke's: 2005[Best of Philly 2005; Cheesesteaks; Philadelphia]
- Chick's Deli: 2003[Best of Philly 2003]
- Chink's: 2002[Best of Philly 2002]
- Lorenzo's: 2002[Best of Philly 2002]
- Pat's King of Steaks: 2002[Best of Philly 2002], 2001[Best of Philly 2001]
- Geno's Steaks: 2000[Best of Philly 2000]
- Jim's Steaks: 1997[Best of Philly 1997]
Cheesesteaks Elsewhere
In other parts of North America, many sandwich shops offer their own versions of the cheesesteak, and some are even dedicated to serving only cheesesteaks. Regionally, the name may vary — in parts of New England, for example, the sandwich is called a "steak and cheese".Some native Philadelphians maintain that places outside the immediate area are not able to produce an authentic Philadelphia cheesesteak. For example, the meat is often prepared incorrectly (sliced from ground or flaked beef, rather than whole or molded), or the traditional toppings are not offered.
Another missing element in many cheesesteaks made outside Philadelphia is the use of Amoroso's rolls. Many Philadelphians who have traveled and eaten cheesesteaks in other cities often cite the lower quality of the roll as a key missing element. Amoroso's rolls are almost exclusively used in Philly (though not by Pat's),op. cit. while rarely used elsewhere.
Southern Californians believe that one of the best places outside Philadelphia to get an authentic cheesesteak is Los Angeles. The Cheesesteak Factory chain introduced Los Angelians to the cheesesteak, and they (along with other steak shops in LA) have been regarded by travelers as the most authentic to a cheesesteak made in Philly.#redirect [[Template:Fact]]
San Diego's Gotham City Pizza has Amoroso Rolls shipped in from Philly. They are favorites in the area, and are especially popular with Philadelphia natives in the city.
See also
References
External links
- [Let's Get a Cheesesteak] - video blog from Jim's Steaks
- [Pat's King of Steaks website]
- [An opinion on the relative merits of Pat's and Geno's]
- [Jim's Steaks website]
- [The History of Geno's Steaks]
- [HollyEats.com - Many Philadelphian cheesesteak shops are rated and described]
- [A well-travelled Philadelphian tries to educate the rest of the world]
- [Amoroso Baking Company]
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