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Hozomeen Mountain

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Hozomeen Mountain is a striking double-summited rock peak on the east side of Ross Lake in the North Cascades of Washington. Despite its low absolute elevation, it is notable for the large, steep drops from both of its summits to the surrounding terrain.

Hozomeen Mountain (back-left) from the south end of Ross Lake
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Hozomeen Mountain (back-left) from the south end of Ross Lake

Hozomeen North Peak (the main summit) was first climbed in 1904 by Sledge Tatum and George E. Loudon, Jr. of the Boundary Survey, from the northeast. Other routes exist on the South Ridge and Southwest Buttress.

Hozomeen South Peak, elevation 8,003 feet (2,439 m), lies approximately 1 mile southeast of the higher North Peak. It was first climbed on May 30, 1947 by Fred Beckey, Melvin Marcus, Jerry O'Neil, Ken Prestrud, Herb Staley, and Charles Welsh, via the Southwest Route. While lower than the North Peak, it is perhaps more spectacular, with a North face which is "almost completely vertical for 1,000 feet."Fred Beckey, Cascade Alpine Guide (3), The Mountaineers, 1995.

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