Jūrmala

Beach at Majori. The object on the right is a changing cabin.

Jūrmala (population 55,718 as of the 2000 census), meaning "seaside" or "beach" in Latvian, is a city in Latvia, not far from Riga. Jūrmala is a resort town stretching 32 kilometres and sandwiched between the Gulf of Riga and the River Lielupe. Decades ago it was part of the Soviet Union and every summer was swarmed by high-level Communist Party officials, it was a favourite destination of Brezhnev and Khrushchev. There remain grand beachhouses and concrete hotel spa complexes, many fallen into disrepair. Jūrmala is now a popular tourist attraction with long beaches facing the Gulf of Riga and romantic wooden houses in art nouveau style.

Visitors can get to Jūrmala from Riga in around 40 minutes either by train or by bus.

History

The area now comprising the city of Jūrmala has formerly been part of Riga, bearing the name Rīgas Jūrmala, but some parts of the city like Sloka and Ķemeri have been known as health resorts for centuries. Because much of the area was formerly owned by Baltic Germans, Jūrmala was once known in German as Riga-Strand, or "Beach of Riga". The city of Jūrmala actually consists of a string of small resorts. From west to east, these include Ķemeri, Jaunķemeri, Sloka, Kauguri, Vaivari, Asari, Melluži, Pumpuri, Jaundubulti, Dubulti, Majori, Dzintari, Bulduri and Lielupe.

After Latvian indepdnence, Latvian became the official language and native Russian was barred from schools and places of work. Jūrmala was popular with the Commnunist officials because of its beach and sanitoriums - holidays were also given as rewards for top union members. The spas offered facilities from mud baths to riding therapy and hiking in the woods. However Jūrmala's reputation as a spa destination began well before the Soviet era. Wealthy landowners began the tradition of relaxing at the seaside in the last 1700s and early 1800s and Russian army officers came here to recuperate from their wounds of the Napoleanic War of 1812, returning later with their families.

14 years ago Latvia declared itself independent and Russian was removed from street-signs and schools. Jūrmala has naturally been affected by this change and is no longer a destination for the elite. Whereas Riga has advanced rapidly to embrace and cater for growing numbers of Western tourists, Jūrmala has lagged behind. Russians are now subject to strict visa requirements and its beaches have yet to attract significant nubmesr of Europeans leaving the tourist industry with a hard task on its hands. Infact much of the resort has the feeling of grand dereliction; the town has an official list of 414 historical buildings under protection, as well as 3,500 wooden structures.

However there are signs that the town is on the up - the main beach at Majori and another at Bulduri now bear blue eco-flags signalling their safety to swim in and the Latvian Academy of Science boasts a hotel for its members in the town. There is also the Midsummer Festival in June celebrating the longest day when the sky never fully darkens and the New Wave music festival showcases the latest music from all over Europe. Many tourism speculators label Jūrmala as a town waiting to be rediscovered.

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