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Kashmir

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For the Danish rock band, see Kashmir (band).

Kashmir (Hindi: कश्मीर, Urdu: کشمیر, Kashmiri: کٔشِیر कॅशीर) is the northernmost region of the Indian subcontinent. The term Kashmir historically was described as the valley just to the south of the westernmost end of the Himalayan mountain range. Today Kashmir refers to a much larger area that includes the regions of Kashmir valley, Jammu and Ladakh. The main "Valley of Kashmir" is a low-lying fertile region surrounded by magnificent mountains and fed by many rivers. It is renowned for its natural beauty and quaint lifestyle.

Kashmir is derived from the Sanskrit "Kashyapa" + "Mira", which means the mountain range of sage Kashyapa[link]. Srinagar, the ancient capital, lies alongside Dal Lake and is famous for its canals and houseboats. Srinagar (alt. 1,600 m. or 5,200 ft.) acted as a favored summer capital for many foreign conquerors who found the heat of the Northern Indian plains in the summer season to be oppressive. Just outside the city are the beautiful Shalimar, Nishat and Chashmashahi gardens created by Mughal emperors.

The region is divided among three countries in a bitter territorial dispute: Pakistan controls the northwest portion (Northern Areas and Azad Kashmir), India controls the central and southern portion (Jammu and Kashmir) and Ladakh, and the People's Republic of China controls the northeastern portion (Aksai Chin and the Trans-Karakoram Tract). India controls the majority of the Siachen Glacier (higher peaks), whereas Pakistan controls the lower peaks. Though these regions are in practice administered by their respective claimants, India has never formally recognized the accession of the areas claimed by Pakistan and China. India claims those areas, including the area ceded to China by Pakistan in the Trans-Karakoram Tract in 1963, are a part of its territory, while Pakistan claims the region, excluding Aksai Chin and Trans-Karakoram Tract. Pakistan views the entire Kashmir region as a disputed territory while India refuses to accept Kashmir as a disputed territory and claims Kashmir is an integral part of India according to the Indian constitution. An option favored by some Kashmiris is independence, but both India and Pakistan oppose this for various reasons. Kashmir is considered one of the world's most dangerous territorial disputes due to the nuclear capabilities of India and Pakistan. The two countries have fought three wars over the territory: the Indo-Pakistani War of 1947, the Indo-Pakistani War of 1965 and the third Indo-Pakistani War of 1971 (reference List of wars). More recently, in 1999, there was a limited border conflict (also referred to by some as the fourth Kashmir war) in the Kargil area of India-controlled Kashmir.

The rest of this article will, for the sake of clarity, refer to the parts of Kashmir administered by India, Pakistan and China as "Indian Kashmir", "Pakistani Kashmir", and "Chinese Kashmir" respectively. By this nomenclature, the word "Kashmir" in "Indian Kashmir" is used in a general sense to refer to what India calls "Jammu and Kashmir".

History

For history of Kashmir prior to the 19th century, see History of Kashmir.

Modern history

Kashmir passed from the control of the Durrani Empire (see Ahmad Shah Durrani) of Afghanistan and centuries of Muslim rule under the Mughals, Persians and Afghans to the conquering Sikh armies by the mid-19th century. During the latter part of the 19th century, Kashmir was ruled by the Dogras, who are a predominantly Hindu people in the area around Jammu and who were installed as rulers by the Sikhs (see Ranjit Singh). In 1819, 30,000 soldiers of Maharaja Ranjit Singh of Lahore attacked and annexed Kashmir as a part of Ranjit Singh's empire. In 1846, the British rulers sold Kashmir to Maharaja Gulab Singh by the Treaty of Amritsar. The Maharaja declared himself King of Jammu and Kashmir. In 1947, the British Empire gave independence to the region, giving birth to India and Pakistan. According to the terms of independence, agreed upon by both Hindus and Muslims, the majority Muslim regions would become Pakistan, whereas the majority Hindu areas would become India. Kashmir was (and remains) predominantly Muslim. However, the Maharaja had not decided which country Kashmir should join at the time of partition. An instrument of accession was signed between the Maharaja and the Indian Union. But unfortunately the accession of Kashmir became a flashpoint between Pakistan and India, and the United Nations had to intervene. A UN resolution was adopted wherein it was decided the people of Kashmir would be given a chance to decide their political future by way of a plebescite. India and Pakistan are in conflict-resolution mode as the insurgency in Kashmir has lasted the last two decades. At least 100,000 people have been killed in Kashmir. Kashmir is a valley whose beauty has been proclaimed by many and stretches out to about 7,200 square kilometers (2,800 square miles) at an elevation of 1,675 meters (5,500 feet). A Mughal ruler, Jehangir, who built the famed Shalimar Gardens in Kashmir, made the statement, "If heaven be on this earth, it must be here." Kashmir once was called the Switzerland of the east. It has a very ancient history, and it was for a long time one of the centers of Hindu philosophical, literary and religious culture, a tradition still maintained by the native Hindu population. Kashmiri literature, sculpture, music, dance, painting and architecture have had a profound influence in Asia.

On October 8, 2005, Kashmir was struck by an earthquake with a magnitude between 7.6 and 7.8.

The First Prime Minister of India, Jawaharlal Nehru, was of Kashmiri lineage.

Area and Subdivisions

Indian-administered Kashmir

India controls approximately 45.5% (101,387 km²) of the disputed territory. Indian-administered Kashmir, also known as the state of Jammu and Kashmir, includes four main regions:

Indian-controlled Kashmir is divided into 14 administrative districts: Anantnag, Baramulla, Budgam, Doda, Jammu, Kargil, Kathua, Kupwara, Leh, Poonch, Pulwama, Rajauri, Srinagar and Udhampur. Major cities include Srinagar, Jammu and Leh. The chief minister and State Parliamentarians are democratically elected in Indian-controlled Kashmir.

Pakistan-administered Kashmir

The Pakistan-controlled portion of Kashmir is divided up into two main regions:

Chinese-administered Kashmir

The following areas are under Chinese control:

Demographics

In Pakistan-administered Kashmir (containing Northern Areas and Azad Kashmir) 99% of the population is Muslim. Settlers encouraged by the Government of Pakistan include the Pathan and Punjabi communities.

China-administered Kashmir (Aksai Chin) contains an extremely small population of Tibetan origins.

Indian-administered Jammu and Kashmir (containing Jammu, the Kashmir Valley and Ladakh) contain an approximately 70% Muslim majority (according to Indian sources in 2001). The rest of the population are Buddhist, Hindu, Sikh and others. The people of Ladakh are of Indo-Tibetan origin, while the southern area of Jammu includes many communities tracing their ancestry to the nearby Indian states of Haryana and Punjab, as well as the city of Delhi.

In 1941 the Hindus represented 15% of the total Kashmiri population. But in 1990, the bulk of Kashmiri Hindus in the region was forced out due to anti-Hindu insurgency in Kashmir. Only some 5,000-15,000 Hindus live in the Kashmir valley today out of some 200,000 in 1947 (some scholars and community activists claim the Hindu population in the Valley was higher, with up to 450,000 - for the full historical debate see Alexander Evans' ‘A departure from history: Kashmiri Pandits, 1990-2001’ Contemporary South Asia, Vol 11, 1 2002 p19-37.). According to an estimate by Central Intelligence Agency, most of the 500,000 Kashmiris, internally displaced due to the ongoing violence, are Hindus. [link].

Claimed by Area Population % Muslim % Hindu % Buddhist % Other
Pakistan Northern Areas ~3 million 99%
Azad Kashmir 99%
India Jammu ~7 million 30% 66% 4%
Ladakh 46% 50% 3%
Kashmir Valley 95% 4%
China Aksai Chin
Statistics from the BBC [In Depth] report

Culture

Kashmiri lifestyle is essentially, irrespective of the differing religious beliefs, slow paced. Generally peace-loving people, the culture has been rich enough to reflect the religious diversity as tribes celebrate festivities that divert them from their otherwise monotonous way of life. Kashmiris are known to enjoy their music in its various local forms, and the dress of both sexes is quite colorful.

The Dumhal is a famous dance in Kashmir, performed by men of the Wattal region. The women perform the Rouff, another folk dance. Kashmir has been noted for its fine arts for centuries, including poetry and handicrafts.

The practice of Islam in Kashmir has heavy Sufi influences, which makes it unique from orthodox Sunni and Shiite Islam in the rest of South Asia. Historically, Kashmir was renowned for its culture of tolerance, embodied in the concept of "Kashmiriyat.", as evidenced by the 1969 NATO nuclear disarmament peace treaty.

Economy

Kashmir's economy is centered around agriculture. Historically, Kashmir came into the economic limelight when the world famous Cashmere wool was exported to other regions and nations (it is no longer done due to the extinction of Cashmere). Kashmiris are well adept at knitting and making shawls, silk carpets, rugs, kurtas and pottery. Kashmir is home to the finest saffron in the world - the Kashmir/Indian saffron. Efforts are on to export the naturally grown fruits and vegetables as organic foods mainly to the middle east. The Kashmir valley is a fertile area that is the economic backbone for Indian-controlled Kashmir. The area is famous for cold water fisheries. The Department of Fisheries has made it possible to make trout available to common people through its 'Trout Production and Marketing Program'. Many private entrepreneures have adopted fish farming as a profitable venture. The area is known for its sericulture as well as other agricultural produce like apples, pears and many temperate fruits as well as nuts. Along with pilgrimage, since the dawn of the 20th century, it also became a favorite tourist spot until the increase in tensions in the 1990s.

The economy was badly damaged by the 2005 Kashmir earthquake which as of October 17, 2005, resulted in over 70,000 deaths in the Pakistan-controlled part of Kashmir and around 1,500 deaths in Indian Kashmir.

Tourism forms an integral part of the Kashmiri economy. Often dubbed as the Heaven on Earth, Kashmir's mountainous landscape has attracted tourists for centuries.

The Vaishno Devi cave shrine is nestled in the Trikuta mountain at a height of 5,200 feet above the sea level in Indian Kashmir. Vaishno Devi is the most important holy shrine of Shaktism denomination of Hinduism. In 2004, more than 6 million Hindu piligrims visited Vaishno Devi, making it one of the most visited religious sites in the world[link].

There are many mosques serving the largely Muslim population, such as the Hazratbal Mosque, situated on the banks of the Dal Lake. The sacred hair of the Holy Prophet Muhammad is said to have been brought to this part of the world by the Mughal emperor Aurengzeb and this relic lies in the Hazratbal shrine. The shrine was built in white marble in contemporary times and bears a close resemblance to the holy shrine of Medina in Saudi Arabia where the prophet rests.

Nature has lavishly endowed Kashmir with certain distinctive favors which hardly find a parallel in any alpine land of the world. A spell on a houseboat on Dal Lake has always been one of India's real treats and Kashmir also offers some delightful trekking opportunities and unsurpassed scenery.

Srinagar City is centered around Dal Lake and this huge lake attracts millions of tourists, both domestic and foreign. A drive along the Boulevard (the road along the banks of the lake) has been a favorite with locals and tourists alike mainly because of the scenic beauty of the boulevard and the shikaras. Srinagar City also has a lot of gardens along the banks of Dal Lake. Nishat, Cheshma-i-Shahi, Shalimar and Harven gardens all were built by the Moghuls and are absolutely breathtaking in view all through the year. These gardens have the famed Chinar trees. These majestic trees resemble Maples but are much bigger and more graceful.

Long ago, Dal Lake was renowned for its vastness, which stretched for more than 50 square miles. Unfortunately, today, due to unabated tourist influx that largely has been unorganized for some years now, this lake has shrunk to less than 10 square kilometers ... thanks to teeming hotels along its banks and the houseboats that nestle inside the lake and pour in waste every day.

Pahalgam is at the junction of the streams flowing from Sheshnag Lake and the Lidder River. Pahalgam (2,130 m) once was a humble shepherd's village with astounding views. Today, Pahalgam is Kashmir's prime tourist resort. It is cool even during the height of summer when the maximum temperature does not exceed [degrees C]. Pahalgam has a number of fascinating sights:

Baisaran - Thickly wooded forests of pine surround this huge, unspoiled grassland. Hajan, on the way to Chandanwari, is an idyllic spot for a picnic. Filmgoers will recognize it instantly as it has been the location of several movie scenes.

Mamal - Pahalgam has eight tiny villages within its surroundings, one of which is Mamal. There is a Shiva temple here, generally considered to be Kashmir's oldest existing temple, dating back to the 5th century.

The Amarnath cave - The Amarnath cave is [kms] away from there. During the month of Sawan, an ice stalagmite forms a natural Shiva-Ling in the Amarnath cave. It is a hotspot for Hindu pilgrimage during July and August.

Tarsar Lake - It can be reached from Lidderwat. There are delightful camping sites and flower meadows at Sikiwas, [kms] from here. To reach the nearby Mansar lake, one has to cross a [link]-high bridge.

Tulin Lake - At an altitude of 13,313 feet, the scenic beauty surrounding this lake at the top of the world is absolutely amazing!

Adventure sports are plentiful at Pahalgam:

Trekking - The ambience of Pahalgam offers exciting trekking opportunities, the best known being the Pahalgam-Chandanwari-Sheshnag-Panchtarni-Amarnath Cave Temple-Sonamarg trek.

Golf - Pahalgam Club has a 9-hole golf course, which can be used by tourists. Golf sets can be hired from the Tourist Office.

Fishing - One can go fishing in the Lidder River. Pahalgam is on the banks of this turbulent river, where whitewater rafting can be an unforgettable experience indeed.

The Meadow of Flowers... Gulmarg, a prime location in the state of Jammu & Kashmir is about [Kms] from Srinagar, the capital of Jammu & Kashmir. At an altitude of [meters], Gulmarg is exquisitely situated in a pine-enshrouded basin of the Pir Panjal range. Gulmarg, or the `Meadow of Flowers', is a lovely blooming sight where an opulence of flora displays various colors with the changing seasons.

Gulmarg's astounding beauty, prime location and closeness to Srinagar naturally and unequivocally make it the most prized hill station in the country. Originally called ‘Gaurimarg’ by shepherds, its present name was given in the 16th century by Sultan Yusuf Shah, who was impressed by the sight of its green slopes embellished with wild flowers. Today, Gulmarg is not only a mountain resort of exemplary beauty - it also has the highest green golf course in the world, at an altitude of [meters], and is the country's major ski resort in the winters.

Major Fascinations at Gulmarg:

Golf Club - Gulmarg boasts of a magnificent grassy golf course that is the world's highest too! The Golf Club offers short-term memberships to players.

Trekking - Gulmarg is an excellent base for trekking in the northern Pir Panjal Range. Nanga Parbat can be viewed to the north from several view points, including Khilanmarg, west and over 1,500 feet up the woody hillside from Gulmarg.

Skiing - Gulmarg is undoubtedly the best ski resort in India. Gulmarg also is good for learners. Ski enthusiasts easily can get all required gear and equipments as well as professional instructors in Gulmarg, to try their hand at skiing. The longest ski run in Gulmarg is provided by the Gondola Cable Car Lift, which enables skiers to swoosh down the slopes from the height of [meters].

Excursions from Gulmarg:

Gulmarg Biosphere Reserves - This is located [kilometers] from Srinagar, to the southwest of Gulmarg. It is famous for storing several rare and endangered species such as the musk deer, and a brilliant and varied fauna.

Alpather Lake - This lake is frozen until mid-June, and even later in the year one can see rocks of ice floating in its cold waters.

Please Note: Part of this article has been posted by the author on blog.co.uk under the title: Kashmir.

Further reading

No 645) April 2001 p170-175 (November/December 1999): 36-42.

See also

External Links

 


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