List of climbers
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This list of climbers includes both mountaineers and rock climbers, since many (though not all) climbers engage in both types of activities. The list also includes boulderers and ice climbers.
A
- Louis Agassiz (1807–1873) Swiss/USA. Published seminal work on Glaciology in 1840, based on studies in the Alps.
- Pierre Allain (1904–2000) French alpinist who championed bouldering at Fontainebleau
- Bryden Allen - One of the "grandfathers" of Australian rock climbing. Numerous first ascents including the first ascent of Ball's Pyramid, one of the tallest sea stacks on earth[link]
- Christian Almer (1826-1898), Swiss. Grindelwald guide; made many first ascents in the Alps, a.o. of the Mönch, Eiger, Fiescherhorn, Barre des Ecrins and Aiguille Verte.
- Luigi Amedeo di Savoia, Duke of the Abruzzi (1873–1933), first ascent of Mount Saint Elias in Alaska/Yukon
- Pat Ament - Famed rock climber and prolific author, pioneer boulderer
- Conrad Anker (1963-) US. Discovered George Mallory's body on Mount Everest in 1999
- Melchior Anderegg (1827-1912), Swiss. "King of the mountain guides" from Meiringen, who made many first ascents in the Alps, a.o. of the Dent d'Hérens and Grandes Jorasses and of the Goûter and Brenva routes of the Mont Blanc
- Bernd Arnold, prolific climber from the Sächsischen Schweiz area of Germany
- Armando Aste (1926-) Italy. Mountaineer Dolomites and Patagonia. Leader of the first Italian ascent of the Eiger north face
- Peter Athans US. Winner of the David A Sowles Award. Everest seven times.
- Matthias Auckenthaler (1906–1936) Austria. First ascent of the north face of Furchetta in the Dolomites.
- Peter Aufschnaiter, (1899–1973) Austria. Mountaineer and co-traveller of Heinrich Harrer (Seven Years in Tibet)
B
- John Bachar, American rock climber
- John Ball (1818–1889 Irish. Naturalist and Climber, notable for his guides to the Alps. First president of the Alpine Club, founded in 1857. [Link]
- Jacques Balmat (1762–1834) Chamonix based guide. First ascent of Mont Blanc with Jean-Jaques Paccard in 1786.
- George Band (1929–) UK. Everest Expedition 1953, First acscent Kanchenjunga 1955 with Joe Brown. Former President of the Alpine Club and the British Mountaineering Council.
- Henry Barber (born 1953); leading U.S. rock climber in the 1970s; advocate of clean climbing ("alpine style")
- Fred Beckey, born Friedrich Wolfgang Beckey (1923). German/US. Prolific mountaineer, with many first ascents in the US and Canada
- George Irving Bell (1926–2000) US. Physicist, biologist and mountaineer. Masherbrum 1960. One of the five climbers on K2 in 1953 who fell but were saved by Peter Schoening.
- Gertrude Bell, (1868–1926); British explorer, mountaineer and spy; was instrumental in shaping modern Iraq
- Josune Bereziartu (born 1972); Basque rock climber; as of 2005, she is the only female to have climbed the grade 9a/5.14d
- Steven Berry, a British mountaineer; in the 1980s, he made an attempt of the southwest ridge of Gangkar Puensum in Bhutan
- Merrill Bitter (born 1953); American rock climber.
- Barry Blanchard (born 1959); Canadian alpinist and mountain guide; made the first ascents in the St. Elias range of Alaska; has also climbed various peaks in the Canadian Rockies and Himalayas; associate director of Yamnuska Mountain Adventures in Canmore, Alberta
- Karl Blodig (1859-1956); Austrian mountaineer, optician and journalist; first to have climbed all peaks in The Alps over 4000 metres
- Peter Boardman (1950–1982) UK. Climber and Writer. Everest 1975, Changabang West Wall 1976, Kanchenjunga 1979. Died on Everest N-NE ridge with Joe Tasker in 1982.
- Walter Bonatti (born 1930); talented and controversial Italian mountaineer and writer; climbed mainly in the Alps, but also made a successful ascent of K2
- Sir Chris Bonington (1934-) UK. Ascents of Nuptse, Annapurna, and Mount Everest, among many others; knighted in 1996
- Orrin Bonney US. Former president of the American Alpine Club.
- Thomas George Bonney (1833–1923) UK. Geologist and mountaineer. Former president of the Alpine Club. Made most of his ascents in the Alps. [link]
- Anatoli Boukreev (1958–1997) Russia. Kanchenjunga (first traverse of the four summits) 1989, Dhaulagiri 1991 & 1995, Everest 1991 & 1995 & 1996 &1997, K2 1993, Makalu 1994, Manaslu 1995, Lhotse 1996 & 1997, Cho Oyu 1996, Shishapangma 1996, Broad Peak 1997, Gasherbrum IV 1997. Killed on Annapurna 25 December 1997 in an avalanche.
- Bean Bowers aka Poroto; Patagonian legend
- David Breashears (born 1956); American mountaineer and filmmaker; first American man to reach the summit of Mount Everest twice, with his successful ascent in 1985; directed the 1998 IMAX film Everest.
- Jim Bridwell; made the first one-day ascent of The Nose in Yosemitie National Park in 1975
- Joe Brown (1930–) UK. Rock climbing pioneer. First ascent of Kanchenjunga 1955 with George Band.
- Katie Brown (born 1987); American boulderer and competitive sport climber
- Hermann Buhl (1924–1957) Austria. First ascent Nanga Parbat (1953), first ascent Broad Peak (1957) with Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck and Kurt Diemberger. Killed on Chogolisa on June 27 1957.
- Adrian Burgess; British mountaineer and photographer. Has made 25 Himalayan expeditions and summitted Mount Everest; is the twin brother of Alan Burgess
- Alan Burgess; British mountaineer; twin brother of Adrian Burgess
- Soner Büyükatalay (1979) - Turkey summiter of Mt. Everest (2006)
C
- Tommy Caldwell (born 1978) American rock climber. Married to Beth Rodden
- Ramond de Carbonnières (1755–1827) -French scientist and alpinist. Discovered the Pyrenees
- Kim Carrigan (Australian) One of the leading technical rock climbers of the 1980s.
- Carlos Carsolio Mexico. 14 8000m summits (1985-1996).
- Riccardo Cassin (born 1909)-Italian Alpinist
- Robert Caspersen Trango Pulpit first ascent in 1999. Norway's best climber in recent years.
- Yvon Chouinard (1938-) Leading climber from the Golden Age of climbing in Yosemite. Advocate of clean climbing Founder of Choinard Equipment and later Patagonia
- Mustafa Cihan (1971) - Turkey Summiter of Mt. Everest (2006).
- Vern Clevenger (1955-) US. First ascent Cholatse (1982) with Galen Rowell,John Rowell and Bill O'Connor. Numerous first routes ascents in the Sierra Nevada (US)
- Ian Clough (1939-1970) UK. First ascent of Am Buachaille (1968) with Tom Patey. Killed on Annapurna.
- Norman Clyde (1886-1972) US. Pioneer climber of California Sierra Nevada.[link]
- J. Norman Collie (1859–1942) UK. First ascent Tower Ridge Ben Nevis. Nanga Parbat expedition 1895.
- Achille Compagnoni (1914-) Italy. First ascent K2 (1954) with Lino Lacedelli
- Janne Corax (1967–) Sweden. Adventurer and climber
- William Martin Conway (1856–1937) UK. Surveyor, explorer and mountaineer (Karakoram, Spitsbergen, Andes & Alps).
- William Coolidge (1850–1926) - 1,700 expeditions in Alps, greatest Alpine historian.
- Jean Couzy France. First ascent Makalu (1955) with Lionel Terray
- Aleister Crowley (1875–1947) - occultist, writer, and record breaking mountaineer. Led expeditions on K2 and Kanchenjunga.
- Michel Croz (-1865) Chamonix guide, first ascent off Barre Des Ecrins. First ascent Matterhorn (1865) with Edward Whymper, Francis Douglas, Charles Hudson, George Hadow, and the two Peter Taugwalders (father and son). Killed on descent.
D
- Art Davidson US. First winter ascent of Denali (1967) with Ray "Pirate" Jenet and Dave Johnston. Author "Minus 148"
- Johnny Dawes (1964-) - British rock climber, responsible for the introduction of two new grades in the British grading system for traditional climbs.
- Catherine Destivelle (1960-) France. Sports climber and mountaineer. Nameless Tower (1990), Eigerwand (solo) (1992). [Link]
- Thomas Clinton Dent (1850–1912) UK. Caucasus, Alps, first ascent of Aiguille du Dru (1878).
- Ardito Desio (1897–2001) Italy. Geologist and Mountaineer. Leader of K2 first ascent expedition in 1954.
- Kurt Diemberger (1932-) Austria. First ascent Broad Peak (1957) with Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck and Hermann Buhl. First ascent Dhaulagiri (1960) with Peter Diener, Ernst Forrer, Albin Schelbert, Nyima Dorji and Nawang Dorji. K2 (1986).
- Peter Diener Germany. First ascent Dhaulagiri (1960) with Kurt Diemberger, Ernst Forrer, Albin Schelbert, Nyima Dorji and Nawang Dorji.
- Hans Christian Doseth (1958–1984) Norway. Sports climber and mountaineer. Climbed east face Great Trango Tower (1984) with Finn Dæhli. Summited, but both were killed on the descent.
- Hans Dülfer (1892–1915) Leading German rockclimber who died during WWI.
- Günther Dyhrenfurth (1886–1975) Swiss. Mountaineer and Himalayan explorer. Led German expeditions to Kanchenjunga in 1930 and 1931. [link]
E
- Tim Emmett -British competitive rock and ice climber
- Charles Evans (born 1912) - Alps, Wales, leader of Kanchenjunga first ascent expedition
- John Ewbank - One of the "grandfathers" of Australian rock climbing. Invented the Australian (Ewbank) grading system now used throughout Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and parts of South East Asia.
F
- Sue Fear Australia. Cho Oyu 1998, Shishapangma 2002, Everest 2003, Gasherbrum II 2004. Killed in crevasse fall on descent from Mansalu 28 May 2006.
- Rudolf Fehrmann (1886–1947)- Pioneer rock climber in Elbsandsteingebirge
- Dan Filip (1979–??) - romaninan climber.
- George Ingle Finch (1888–1969) - led 1922 Everest expedition to 27,300 ft
- Tunc Findik - Turkey, Taurus Mountains, One of the most skilled climbers in Turkey
- Scott Fischer (1956–1996) USA. Lhotse 1990, K2 1992, Everest 1994. Died on descent from Everest in the storm of May 11 1996.
- Hans Florine - US Speed Climber, World Record Holder
- James David Forbes (1809–1868) - early, first British ascent of Jungfrau
- Ernst Forrer Swiss. First ascent Dhaulagiri (1960) with Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Albin Schelbert, Nyima Dorji and Nawang Dorji.
- Mick Fowler UK. Technical climber, winner of the Piolet D'Or 2003. [link]
- Jean Franco - led expedition on first ascent of Makalu (1955)
- Douglas Freshfield (1845–1934) - Alps, Scotland, Himalaya, Pyrenees
- Tom Frost- American rock climber. Yosemite National Park pioneer. Climbing equipment manufacturer
G
- Gregory Frank - American. Soloed Mt. McKinley North Face without ropes. Soloed for three months in the Andes. Summited Everest in 2005, Scottish Expedition, without auxiliary oxygen or radios. Died on Annapurna March 5, 2006.
- Will Gadd - Canadian. Responsible for various hard mixed routes including the first M12.
- João Garcia, first Portuguese to climb Mount Everest, did it without auxiliary oxygen. Leading mountaineer in Portugal
- Lester Germer (1896 – 1971) - American physicist, World War I fighter pilot and rock climber.
- Konrad von Gesner (1516–1565) -Swiss naturalist Early mountaineer. Alps
- Ivano Ghirardini (1953) -France First Grandes jorasses, Matterhorn, Eiger north faces trilogie in winter and soloing 1978. Mitre Peak first ascent 1980.
- John Gill -American. Father of modern Bouldering
- Serkan Girgin (1979) - Turkey Summiter of Mt. Everest (2006).
- Serge Gousseault (1947-1971) -France-Mountain guide Dramatic winter attempt with René Desmaison in Grandes Jorasses north face 1971.
- Dave Graham (born 1981) Maine) professional rock climber and boulderer.
- Veikka Gustafsson (1968-) Finnish. Dhaulagiri (1993), Lhotse (1995), Makalu (1995), Everest (1997), Manaslu (1999) Dhaulagiri (1999), Shishapangma (2001), Nanga Parbat (2001), Cho Oyu (2005), Annapurna (2005), Kanchenjunga (2006). All without supplementary oxygen.
- Anne Gray (born 1961 Australian rock climber and orthopedic surgeon.
- William Spotswood Green (1847–1919) - New Zealand, Selkirks
- Wolfgang Güllich (1960–1992) - Germany, one of the most successful sport climbers
H
- Peter Habeler (1942–) Austria. First ascent without supplementary oxygen Mount Everest (1978) with Reinhold Messner.
- Douglas Hadow - killed on first ascent of Matterhorn
- Lincoln Hall Australia. Everest (2006). Rescued after being 'left for dead' overnight at 8700m on descent from the summit of Everest.
- Rob Hall (1960–1996) New Zealand. Seven Summits in seven months with Gary Ball (1990). Died in the 1996 Everest Disaster on 11 May 1996.
- Warren J Harding - first ascent of El Capitan
- Alison Hargreaves (1963-1995) Scotland. First female unassisted Everest (1995), died on descent from K2 summit
- John Harlin (1934-1966) US. Direct route pioneer. Killed on the north face of the Eiger.
- Heinrich Harrer (1912-2006) Austria. First ascent North Face Eiger (1938) with Anderl Heckmair, Fritz Kasparek and Ludwig Vorg. First ascent Carstensz Pyramid (1962) with 3 others. Author of Seven Years in Tibet.
- Ginette Harrison (1958-1999) UK. 7 Summits (1983-1993). First female ascent Kangchenjunga (1998). Killed in an avalanche on Dhaulagiri.
- Reto Hartmann - Swiss boulderer
- John M. Hartog - first ascent of Muztagh Tower in the Himalaya
- Dougal Haston (1940–1977) UK. First ascent South Face Annapurna (1970) with Don Whillans. Killed in an avalanche in the Alps.
- Ben Heason - British, notable free ascent of the Angel Falls.
- Karl Herligkoffer (born 1917 Germany) - first failed attempt of Broad Peak (1954)
- Hugh Herr (born 1964) - Leading rock U.S. rock climber in the 1980s, with many hard first ascents in the Gunks and elsewhere. Double amputee (both legs below knee)
- Maurice Herzog (1919-) France. First ascent Annapurna (1950) with Louis Lachenal.
- Lynn Hill (1961-) US. First free ascent The Nose on El Capitan, Yosemite (1993).
- Edmund Hillary (1919-) NZ. First ascent Mount Everest (1953) with Tenzing Norgay.
- Alan Hinkes (1954-) UK. 14 8000m summits.
- Yuji Hirayama - difficult onsight
- Charles F. Hoffmann (1838-1913) US. Surveyor and mountaineer. Several first ascents in the Sierra Nevada.
- Steve House Solo ascent of K7 in 2004 (nominated for Piolet d'Or), first ascent of the Rupal Face on Nanga Parbat with Vince Anderson in 2005 (won Piolet d'Or)
- Alexander and Thomas Huber - German climbers and mountaineers. Free ascents in Yosemite, speed record on El Capitan, expeditions and free solos
- Charles Hudson (1828–1865) UK. First ascent Monte Rosa (1855) with a party of climbers. First ascent Matterhorn (1865) with Edward Whymper, Francis Douglas, George Hadow, Michel Croz and the two Peter Taugwalders (father and son). Killed on descent.
- Francois-Joseph Hugi - geologist, unsuccessful attempts in 1828 of Jungfrau and Finsteraarhorn
- Alexander von Humboldt - Mount Chimborazo
- John Hunt (1910–1998) UK. Leader 1953 Everest expedition.
I
- Toshio Imanishi Japan. First ascent Manaslu 1956 with Gyalzen Norbu.
- Jeanne Immink (1853-1929), Dutch rock climber. One of the earliest female rock climbers. Several Dolomite peaks have been named after her.
- Andrew Irvine (1902-1924) UK. Died on Everest at approximately 8500m with George Mallory on 8 June 1924.
J
- Ray "Pirate" Jenet - First winter ascent of Denali with Art Davidson Died in avalanche while skiing.
- Sepp Jöchler Austria. First ascent Cho Oyo (1954) with Herbert Tichy and Pasang Dawa Lama.
K
- Konrad Kain (1883-1934), Austrian-Canadian. Over 50 first ascents in the Canadian rockies, amongst which Mount Robson.
- Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (born 1970), Austrian. Most (9) 8000m peaks by a woman.
- Harish Kapadia- born 1945 India One of the most distinguished Himalayan Mountaineers
- Beat Kammerlander (born 1959) - Austrian sportclimber
- Hans Kammerlander (born 1956)- South Tyrol. 13 of 14 8000m peaks. Messner partner. First to ski down from Nanga Parbat & Mount Everest.
- Bob Kamps (1931–2005) - Leading climber during the "Golden Age" of Yosemite climbing. One of the major forces in the transition from aid climbing to free climbing. An early pioneer of hard 5.10 and 5.11 grades in America.
- Jürg von Känel (1952?-2005) - author of plaisir guide books
- Fritz Kasparek (1910 - 1954) - Austria. First ascent of the Eiger north face.
- Ron Kauk American rock climber with many first ascents in Yosemite. Kauk has done stunt work for Hollywood mountaineering movies as well as being the subject of several rock climbing movies.
- Mohammadreza Khalilighazi (born: 22 June, 1967- Tabriz, Iran) one of the famous Iranian climber and ecotourism leader and he founded Mountain Guide Committee (MGC) since 2002 and Mountain Ecotourism Committee (MEC) since 2006 in Iranian Mountaineering Federation.
- Clarence King (1842–1901) - American geologist and climber, first director of the USGS, first ascent of Mount Tyndall,
- Colin Kirkus (1910-1942)- British rock climber and alpinist
- Layton Kor -American rock climber
- Dai Koyamada (born 1976) - Japanese Sport climber and Boulderer
- Jon Krakauer (born 1954) - American non-fiction author and mountaineer
- Hans Kraus (1905–1995) -Born Austria emigrated U.S. Pioneering rock climber and one of the fathers of sports medicine and physical medicine and rehabilitation
- Göran Kropp (1966–2002) - rode his bike from Sweden, soloed Everest without Oxygen and rode home.
- Christian Kuntner (1962-2005) - South Tyrol. 13 of 14 8000m peaks. Killed by avalanch on 14th peak (Annapurna). [link]
- Jerzy Kukuczka (1948–1989) - Polish climber, the second man to climb all 8,000 m peaks.
- Wojciech Kurtyka (born 1947) - Polish climber, pioneer of alpine style in high mountains.
- Toni Kurz. Climber who attempted the Eiger Nordwand in 1936. Died tragically during the retreat
L
- Louis Lachenal (1921–1955). France. First ascent of Annapurna 1950, with Maurice Herzog. Died in a crevasse fall, while skiing in Chamonix 25 November 1955.
- Jeff Lakes (1962–1995). Canada. Died descending from 8000m on K2 from exposure.
- Raymond Lambert (1914–1997). Swiss. Member of the Swiss Mount Everest 1952 expedition. Reached 8611m with Tenzing Norgay, the highest point at that time.
- Josef Larch Austria. First ascent of Gasherbrum II 1956 with Fritz Moravec and Hans Willenpart.
- Mike Law - Australia's equivalent of John Long.
- Craig Leubben - American rock climber and writer.
- Rahel Maria Liu Germany, 1970-2004 Soloing ascent of Matterhorn Zinalrothorn Weisshorn August 2003
- Philip Ling - From Sydney, Australia. After 13 years working as an off-piste ski guide in St. Anton am Arlberg, Austria, he switched his attention to Himalayan high altitude mountaineering. In 2005 and 2006 he climbed Mt. Pumori, 7216m. In 2006 he and other members of the expedition were involved in an extremely difficult but successful rescue of two injured Sherpas from above 7000m.
- Pete Livesey - Influential UK climber in the 1970s
- Gerhard Lenser - first ascent of Pumori (1962)
- Andrew Lock Australia. K2 (1993) Dhaulagiri (1997) Broad Peak (1997) Nanga Parbat (1998), Hidden Peak (1999) Gasherbrum 2 (1999), Everest (2000 and 2004), Manaslu (20020), Lhotse (2002) and Shishapangma (2003)
- John Long US. Rock climber and writer. Author of the "How to Rock Climb" series.
- Erhard Loretan Swiss. 14 8000m summits (1982-1995).
- Klem Loskot - Austrian rock climber.
- Alex Lowe, (1958–1999) - Prominent American Mountaineer with numerous first accents including Great Trango Tower - Pakistan, Rakekniven - Antarctica, Sail Peak - Baffin Island. Killed in an avalanche on Xixabangma.
- Jeff Lowe (born 1949) - American alpinist and rock/ice climber with more than 500 first ascents to his name incl. solo ascent of South Face of Ama Dablam, Direct Bonatti route on Grand Capucin, North Face of Mt. Temple. Creator of Ouray Ice Festival. Lives in Boulder, CO.
- Fritz Luchsinger - first ascent of Lhotse (1956)
M
- Tim Macartney-Snape (1956 - ) Australia. Everest (1984 and 1990). First person to walk and climb from Sea Level to the summit of Everest (1990).
- Dave MacLeod - Scottish climber and contender for best all rounder in the world. Established world's first E11.
- Nasuh Mahruki (1968) - Turkey, the first Turk and Muslim who climbed the Mount Everest (May 17, 1995)
- George Mallory (1886–1924) Wales, 1921,1922,1924 UK expeditions to Everest. Died on Everest at 8000+ metres June 8/9 1924.
- Steve Mammen - FA of many boulders in Horsetooth and around colorado
- Sergio Martini Italy. 14 8000m summits (1976-2000)
- Chantal Mauduit (1964–1998) France. Shisha Pangma (1993), Cho Oyu (1993), Lhotse (1996), Manaslu (1996), Gasherbrum II (1997). Killed by avalanche on Dhaulagiri, May 16, 1998
- Charles Edward Mathews (1834–1905) - Alps, Snowdonia
- Bora Maviş (1975) - Turkey, Mt. Everest summiter (2006). Married to Eylem Elif Maviş.
- Eylem Elif Maviş (1973) - Turkey, the first ever Turkish woman to climb Mount Everest (May 15, 2006)
- Daniel Mazur US. Everest, Lhotse, K2, Gasherbrum I and Makalu.
- Steve McClure - first Brit to climb 9a twice
- Duncan McDuffie - summits in the Sierra Nevada (US)
- Chris Meadows - Australian hardman (1960's)
- Willi Merkl-German climber. Killed on Nanga Parbat 1934
- Alain Mesili (1949-) France. Fitz Roy (1970) with Ricardo Arzela. Pioneered routes in Bolivia.
- Reinhold Messner (1944 – ) Italy. First to climb all 14 eight-thousander peaks (1970-1986). First ascent without supplementary oxygen Everest (1978) with Peter Habeler. First solo Everest (1980).
- Johann Rudolf Meyer - first ascents of Jungfrau and Finsteraarhorn
- Hieronymus Meyer - first ascents of Jungfrau and Finsteraarhorn
- John Middendorf (1959-) US. Big wall rock climber. First ascent East Wall Great Trango Tower (1992) with Xaver Bongard.
- Ben Moon - UK sports climber and boulderer, established the world's first F8C+
- Fritz Moravec (1922-1997) Austria. First ascent of Gasherbrum II (1956) with Josef Larch and Hans Willenpart.
- Simone Moro 1967–) Italy. Winner of the David A Sowles Award 2002 for the rescue of Tom Moore on Lhotse. Lhotse 1994, Shishpangma 1996, Everest 2002 & 2000, Cho Oyu 2002. Survived avalanche an Annapurna that killed Anatoli Boukreev and Dimitri Sobolev
- Tomáš Mrázek - professional Czech rock climber, World Champion 2003, 2005; winner of the World Cup 2004
- John Muir (1838–1914) US. Conservationist and mountaineer. Summits in California and Alaska
- Norrie Muir (1948 – ) Scottish climber and prolific first ascentionist
- Albert F. Mummery (1855–1895) UK. Alpine pioneer, killed on Nanga Parbat.
- Marius Murg (Cretzu) (1977–) - first ascent of Cot in Bot, Tureni Gorges - Romania
N
- Waldemar Niclevicz - Leading mountaineer in Brazil
- Fred Nicole - Swiss rock climber, notable for his numerous first ascents of cutting edge sport routes and boulder problems.
- Tenzing Norgay (1914–1986) Sherpa. First ascent Mount Everest (1953) with Edmund Hillary.
- Edward Felix Norton (1884–1954) - leader of 1924 Everest expedition with Mallory and Irvine
- Sue Nott (1970-2006) US. Technical ice and rock climber. Died on Mount Foraker with Karen McNeill. [link], [link]
- Arne Næss jr. (1937–2004) - leader of 1985 Norwegian Everest expedition
O
- James Outram - Canada, first ascent of Mount Assiniboine
- Dan Osman - American, famous for dangerous solos. Killed whilst attempting his new sport of rope jumping.
- Meltem Çolak Özmine (1972) - Turkey One of the four Turkish female summiters of Mt. Everest (2006).
P
- Michel-Gabriel Paccard - first ascent of Mont Blanc (1786)
- Dogan Palut - One of the most skilled climbers in Turkey.
- Maria Paradis - first woman to ascend Mont Blanc, 1809
- Young-seok Park - first grand slam of mountaineering in 2005
- Tom Patey (1932-1970) Scotland. First ascent Muztagh Tower 1956. First ascent Am Buachaille 1968. Killed in abseilling accident. Author of One Man's Mountains
- Julius Payer (1841-1915). Czech-Austrian polar explorer who made many first ascents in the Adamello and Ortler mountains in the 1860s.
- Jim Perrin - Over 200 notable first/free ascents in Britain, key figure of the late 60's, early 70's. Routes made with Joe Brown, Martin Crook, and many others. 100+ difficult routes. Author of 7 books, two-time winner of the Boardman Tasker prize for mountain literature, for Menlove and The Villain, his biographies of John Menlove Edwards and Don Whillans.
- William Perrin (1980 - 2004). Another key figure of the North Wales climbing scene, friends with world-class climbers such as Tim Emmett, Trevor Massiah and James MacHaffie, and son of Jim Perrin (see above). He was bound for many trips worldwide, such as the short 'Depth Charge', A DWS film in Croatia, where over 60 new routes were put up on island cliffs, aired at LLAMFF '06. His suicide in 2004, along with the death of Tom Revell, cast a dark shadow over the climbing scene in North Wales for months to come. He, like his father, put up several new routes across the UK, and redpointed several climbs in North Wales.
- Oliver Perry-Smith (1884-1969). American rockclimber active in Saxon Switzerland and the Dolomites before World War I
- Petrarch (1304-1374), Italy. Climbed, with his brother, Mont Ventoux on April 26, 1336. As this is the first recorded "touristic" ascent, Petrach is often considered the first mountaineer.
- Burçak Özoğlu Poçan (1970) - climbed over 8,000 m along with her team mate Eylem Elif Maviş as the first Turkish female mountaineers in 2005. One of the four Turkish female summiters of Mt. Everest (2006). Married to Serhan Poçan.
- Serhan Poçan (1970) - Turkey Summiter of Mt. Everest (2006).
- Dean Potter - American climber, innovated new fast and free climbing style; speed soloed El Cap in 4 hours, 17 minutes; speed soloed El Cap and Half Dome in one day. Married to climber Steph Davis.
- Chuck Pratt (1939-2000) -American rock climber. Yosemite pioneer.
- Paul Preuss (1886-1913), Austrian. Early promoter of free climbing. Climbed 1200 peaks in his short life.
- Hristo Prodanov (1943-1984) Bulgaria. Lhotse unassisted 1981. Died on descent from unassisted climb of Everest in 1984.
- Bonnie Prudden - (born 1914) - Pioneering American rock climber and exercise advocate. 30 documented first ascents in the Gunks.
- Karl Prusik - Austrian mountaineer. Introduced the widely used Prusik knot.
- Ramón Julián Puigblanque born (1981) Spanish rock climber
- Ludwig Purtscheller, first ascent of Kilimanjaro in 1889
Q
R
- Lisa Rands - American rock climber and boulderer.
- Jon Read - English climber
- Dave Rearick - American rock climber. First Ascent of the Diamond on Longs Peak, 1960.
- Gaston Rébuffat - French climber
- Ernst Reiss - first ascent of Lhotse (1956)
- Sherpa Ang Rita (born 1948) - Mount Everest
- Alain Robert - French climber and builderer
- Royal Robbins (born 1935) - Yosemite
- Doug Robinson - Sierras
- Rob Robinson - American traditional rock climber. Principal developer of the Tennessee Wall
- Beth Rodden - American rock climber. Married to Tommy Caldwell.
- Rich Romano - American rock climber and prolific first ascentionist. Primary developer of the Gunks cliff Millbrook
- John Roskelley (born 1948) - American mountaineer
- Fred Rouhling -French rock climber, notable for his 1995 proposal of the grade 9b (5.15b) for his unrepeated climb Akira
- Galen Rowell (1940-2002) US. Photographer and mountaineer. First one day ascents of Denali and Kilimanjaro. First ascent Great Trango Tower (1977) with John Roskelley, Kim Schmitz and Dennis Hennek. Died in a plane crash with wife, Barbara.
- Wanda Rutkiewicz - considered by many to be the best female climber in history, died in an attempt of Kanchenjunga in 1992.
S
- John Salathe (1900-1993) -born Switzerland emigrated United States, pioneering Yosemite National Park rock climber and inventor of the modern piton.
- Horace-Bénédict de Saussure (1740–1799) - third ascent of Mont Blanc (1787), funded first ascent
- Albin Schelbert Swiss. First ascent Dhaulagiri (1960) with Kurt Diemburger, Peter Diever, Ernst Forrer, Nyima Dorji and Nawang Dorji.
- Marcus Schmuck (1925–2005) Austria. First ascent Broad Peak (1957) with Hermann Buhl, Kurt Diemburger and Fritz Wintersteller. First ascent Skil Brum (7360m) (1957) with Fritz Wintersteller.
- Peter Schoening (1927–2004) US. First ascent Gasherbrum I (1958) with Andy Kauffman. First ascent Vinson Massif (1966) in Antartica. Awarded the David A Sowles award in 1981 for saving five fellow climbers on K2 in 1953. [Obituary]
- Doug Scott (1941–) UK. Seven Summits. Everest (SW Face) 1975 with Dougal Haston, Ogre (descent with two broken ankles) 1977, Kangchenjunga 1979, Nuptse 1979. Former President of the Alpine Club. 'The John Peel of mountaineering'
- Araceli Segarra (1970-) Spain. Accomplished rock climber and mountaineer. Everest (1996). [link]
- Vittorio Sella (1859–1943)- Italian mountaineer and early photographs
- Michael Vincent Sevidal - Filipino Sport Climber , Free soloist and President of Zero Grab (Local Rock Climbing Org.)
- Chris Sharma (1981-) US. Award winning rock climber. Featured in several rock climbing movies.
- John Sherman - Boulderer, inventor of "V" grading system.
- Pemba Dorjie Sherpa, fastest ascent of Mount Everest, May 23, 2003
- Eric Shipton (1907–1977) UK. First ascent Kamet (1931) with Frank Smythe, R Holdsworth and Lewa Sherpa. Pioneered route across the Khumbu Glacier with Bill Tillman in 1951.
- William Shockley (1910–1989) - Nobel Prize winning physicist, proponent of eugenics. First ascent of Shockleys Ceiling in the Gunks (1953)
- Yannick Seigneur (-2001) France. First ascent West Pillar Makalu (1971)
- Joe Simpson UK. Notably survived a fall and being left for dead on Siula Grande Touching the Void.
- Richard Simpson - British Climber, repeats of many hard sport routes.
- Todd Skinner -American rock climber. From Wyoming. Many first ascents, including first free ascent of the Salathe Wall in Yosemite National Park
- Laurie Skreslet (1949-) Canada. Everest (1982)
- William Cecil Slingsby (1849-1929 UK. First ascent Store Skagastølstind (1876). Pioneer of Norwegian mountaineering.
- Frank Smythe (1900–1949) First ascent Kamet (1931) with Eric Shipton, R Holdsworth and Lewa Sherpa. Reached 8565m on Everest in 1933 without supplementary oxygen. [link]
- William Stairs (1863–1892) - first non-African to ever climb in the Ruwenzoris
- John Stannard -American rock climber and physicist. Early advocate of clean climbing. First free ascent of Foops and many other routes in the Gunks.
- Leslie Stephen - Alps
T
- Joe Tasker (1948–1982) UK. Ascents of Dunagiri (1976), Kanchenjunga (1979), Changabang West Wall. Died with Pete Boardman on Everest on or around 17 May 1982.
- Lionel Terray (1921–1965) France. First ascent Makalu (1955) with Jean Couzy.
- Herbert Tichy (1912–1987) Austria. First ascent Cho Oyu (1954) with Sepp Jochler and Pasang Dawa.
- Bill Tilman - Africa, Himalaya
- Luis Trenker, mountaineer, film director and writer (born in South Tyrol, Austria-Hungary)
- Francis Fox Tuckett (1834–1913) - first ascent of Aletschhorn (1859)
- Mark Twight - American alpinist, advocate of "Light and Fast" style of mountaineering.
- John Tyndall (1820–1893) - Alps, scientist, first ascent of Weisshorn (1861)
U
- James Ramsey Ullman (1908–1971) US. Noted author, and mountaineer.
- Uğur Uluocak (1962-2003) Turkey. Mountaineer, photographer and editor. Died while climbing Mount Alarcha in Kyrgyzstan.
- Willi Unsoeld (1926–1979) US. First American ascent of Everest (1963), with Tom Horbein. Killed in an avalanche on Mount Rainier on 22 May 1979.
- Patxi Usobiaga Spain. Prominent sport climber
- Haldun Ülkenli (1970–) Turkey. Everest (2006).
V
- Erich Vanis (1928-2004) Austria. Mountaineer, alpinist, and author
- Ed Viesturs (1959-) US. First US climber to climb all 14 of the world's 8,000-meter peaks; second person to climb them without supplementary oxygen
- Antoine de Ville France. Artillery officer climbed Mont Aiguille in 1492
- Frits Vrijlandt Dutch. Prominent Dutch climber: Mount Everest, The Seven Summits
W
- Lucy Walker (1836–1916) UK. First female ascent Matterhorn (1871)
- Erik Weihenmayer (1968-) US. First ascent of Everest by a blind person in 2001.
- Don Whillans(1933–1985) UK. First ascent South Face Annapurna (1970) with Dougal Haston
- Rick White - Developed Frog's Buttress (1968) Australian
- Jim Whittaker (1929-) US. First US Ascent Mount Everest (1963)
- Edward Whymper (1840–1911) UK. First ascent Matterhorn (1865), first accent Mount Chimborazo (1880)
- Jim Wickwire (1940-) US. K2 (1978), including an open overnight bivouac near the summit.
- Krzysztof Wielicki(born 1950) - Polish mountaineer. First man on Mount Everest in winter; fifth man to climb all 8000 meter peaks.
- Fritz Wiessner (1900–1988) - Born Dresden emigrated U.S.; Pioneer of free climbing; notable 1939 expedition to K2
- Walter Wilcox (1869–1949) - Canadian Rockies explorer
- Dick Williams -American rock climber. Many first ascents in the Gunks. Original member of The Vulgarians and guidebook author.
- Hans Willenpart Austria. First ascent Gasherbrum II (1956) with Fritz Moravec and Josef Larch.
- George Willig - climbed the South Tower of the World Trade Center
- Fritz Wintersteller (1927&ndash) Austria. First ascent Broad Peak (1957) with Kurt Diemberger, Marcus Schmuck and Hermann Buhl. First ascent Skil Brum (1957) with Marcus Schmuck.
X
Y
- John Yablonski (1956–1991) US. Nickname "Yabo". Technical rock climber. Noted for reckless free soloing. [link]
- Tony Yaniro - notable American sport climber
- Simon Yates (Born 1963) UK. Best known as Joe Simpson's climbing partner on their 1985 attempt on the unclimbed west face of Siula Grande, the epic descent of which was the subject of the book and film Touching the Void.
- Suna Yılmaz (1972) - Turkey One of the four Turkish female summiters of Mt. Everest (2006).
- Ichiro Yoshizawa (1903-1998) Japan. Notable Japanese climber and writer. K2 (1977). [Obituary.]
- Geoffrey Winthrop Young (1876–1958) UK. Writer and mountaineer.
Z
- Nejc Zaplotnik (1952-1983) Slovenia. Ascent Gasherbrum (1977), Everest (1979). Died in an avalanche on Makalu
- Matthias Zurbriggen (1856–1917) Swiss. First ascent Aconcagua (1897).
See also
External links
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