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Munter hitch

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The Münter hitch, also known as the Italian hitch, is a simple knot, commonly used by climbers and cavers as part of a life-lining or belay system. To climbers, this knot is also known as HMS, the abbrevation for the German term Halbmastwurfsicherung, meaning 'half hitch belay.' Therefore, carabiners used for this belaying technique are called HMS carabiners. The name 'Munter hitch' is due to a Swiss mountain guide, Werner Munter, who popularised its use in mountaineering.

The hitch is simply a set of wraps using a rope or cord around an object, generally a round object like a pipe, pole or more commonly, a carabiner. Its main use is as a friction device for controlling the rate of descent in belay systems.

How it works

The Münter hitch creates friction by having the rope rub on itself and on the object it has been wrapped around. One very useful aspect of the Münter is its reversibility; it can be pulled from either side of the rope and it still works just as effectively.

Setting up a belay system using the Munter hitch

The carabiner is mounted on an anchor with the rope going through it, which requires someone to stay by the anchor to operate the Münter hitch or alternatively the rope is attached to an anchor point and the Münter is attached to the load, or the person, descending.

Tying the Munter Hitch on a locking carabiner
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Tying the Munter Hitch on a locking carabiner

The Munter completed
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The Munter completed

While Munter Hitch belay system is very effective, it requires strength and discipline to operate. Also, it kinks up the rope and this accelerates wearing. For these reasons, it is commonly only used as a backup or in emergency situations rather than a primary descending mechanism.

See also

External links

 


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All text is available under the terms of the GNU Free Documentation License See Wikipedia Copyrights for details.

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