Piolet d'Or

Encyclopedia : P : PI : PIO : Piolet d'Or

The Piolet d'Or (French for The Golden Ice Axe) is an annual mountaineering award, which has been given by the French magazine Montagnes and The Groupe de Haute Montagne since 1991. Nominations are selected by GHM and Montagnes, and the award is chosen by a jury consisting of Guy Chaumereuil (the cheif editor of Montagnes when the award was inaugurated), (until 1998) Jean-Claude Marmier (president of GHM when the award was inaugurated), the current president of GHM, the current editor of Montagnes, the previous year's winners and three members invited by GHM, one of whom becomes the president of the jury. The declared criteria for the award are:

“La sélection des lauréats potentiels, ainsi que les conditions d’attribution du trophée obéissent à une éthique stricte, qui est dans la droite ligne des valeurs fondatrices du GHM. Haut niveau technique, engagement constituent certainement les principaux critères auxquels les membres du Groupe éprouvent tant d’attachement. L’originalité dans le choix de l’objectif, le caractère novateur dans la manière de conduire une ascension sont également des elements d’appréciation importants. La pratique de l’alpinisme est en effet en perpétuelle évolution, et cette dimension ne doit pas être oubliée. C’est par la transgression de certaines étapes qui furent considérées comme infranchissables que les mentalités ont évolué, et que des ascensions réputées impossibles sont devenues courantes… Le respect des montagnes qui nous entourent, la beauté du geste et l’esprit dans lesquels on les gravit sont ainsi devenus une des conditions primordiales dans l’attribution du prix. On ne peut en effet léguer aux générations futures de sommets meurtris au nom d’une éthique alpine dévastatrice sans altérer profondément l’esprit même de cette activité.” Yves Peysson Président du G.H.M. (Montagnes-Magazine, Janvier 1999)[link]. 14th Piolet d'Or. URL accessed June 25 2006.

This roughly translates to

The selection of potential laureates, as well as the conditions of awarding the trophy obey a strict ethic, which is in line with the founding values of the GHM. High technical level and commitment certainly constitute the principle criteria to which the GHM members feel so attached. The originality in the choice of the objective and the innovative nature of the manner of conducting the ascent are equally important elements of appreciation. The practice of alpinism is in effect in perpetual evolution, and this dimension should not be forgotten. It's by the crossing of certain stages that were considered impassable that mentalities have evolved, and ascents reputed to be impossible have become commonplace… Respect for the mountains that surround us, the beauty of movement, and the spirit in which people climb those mountains are also primary conditions for the awarding of the prize. We cannot in fact pass down to future generations summits mutilated in the name of a destructive climbing style without profoundly altering the spirit itself of this activity

Controversy has always surrounded the award, mostly due to the non-quantifiable nature of climbing accomplishments. This is further compounded by interpretations of 'alpinism' and 'respect for the mountains.' Controversy is often magnified when the award receipient completed the climb in 'heavy' style, spending large amounts of time on the ascent and leaving gear behind. In 2005 Ian Parnell withdrew his nomination, as did Alessandro Beltrami, Rolando Garibotti and Eemanno Salvaterra in 2006 for what might be the first ascent of the north face of Cerro Torre. Marmier left the jury in 1998 explaining that "the decision of the jury has been a real disaster."Parnell, Ian: "Victors of the Unwinnable", Alpinist, pp58

List of Receipients

2006 Steve House and Vince Anderson for the first ascent of the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat
2005 Russian team led by Alexander Odintsov for the first ascent of the North Face of Jannu
2004 Valery Babanov and Yuri Koshelenko for the ascent of Nuptse
2003 Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden for a new route on the North Face of Siguniang (6250m) in China
2002 Valery Babanov; solo-climb of Mery The Central
2000/2001 Thomas Huber and Iwan Wolf for the first ascent of the direct north pillar of the Shivling (6543m)
1999 Lionel Daudet and Sébastien Foissac for the ascent of the SE Face of the Burkett Needle
1998 Andrew Linblade of Australia and Athol Whimp of New Zealand for the ascent of the North Face of Thalay Sagar
1997 Russian team from Ekaterinburg led by Sergey Efimov for the first ascent of the West Face of Makalu
1996 Tomaz Humar and Vanja Furlan for a new route on the East Face of Ama Dablam
1995 Andreas Orgler, Heli Neswabba and Arthur Wutsher Germany for numerous new route in the Ruth glacier area and especially the new route at South Face of Mt.Bradley (Ruth glacier, Alaska)
1994 Francois Marsigny of France and Andy Parkin of Germany for the new ice and rock route up the Esperance Col on Cerro Torre
1993 The youth high altitude expedition of French Alpine Club (midlle age-20 years) for ascents in the Pamir Mountains
1992 Michel Piola and Vincent Sprungli for the ascent of the East Face Torre South del Paine in Patagonia (the name of the route is "Dans l'Oeil du Cyclone")
1991 Slovenians Andrej Stremfelj and Marko Prezelj for a 3000m ascent of the South Pillar of Kanchenjunga south summit, 8476m (Himalaya)

References and Links

[Concerning Huber's 2000 Piolet d'Or]
[Steve House's thoughts on the 14th Piolet d'Or and explaination of criteria for the award]
[List of winners until 1997 from risk.ru]
[Partial list of receipients from baskcanada.com]

[Website of the Groupe de Haute Montagne]

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