Regensburg

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Regensburg (English formerly Ratisbon, Latin Ratisbona) is a city (population 129,175 in 2005) in Bavaria, south-east Germany, located at the confluence of the Danube and Regen rivers, at the northernmost bend in the Danube. To the east lies the Bavarian Forest. Regensburg is the capital of the Bavarian administrative region Upper Palatinate.

History

The first settlements in Regensburg date to the Stone Ages. The Celtic name Radasbona was the oldest name given to a settlement near the present city. Around AD 90 the Romans built a small "cohort-fort" in what would now be the suburbs.

In 179 the Roman fort Castra Regina ("fortress by the river Regen") was built for Legio III Italica during the reign of Emperor Marcus Aurelius. It was an important camp on what was then the northern fringe of the empire: it corresponds to what is today the core of Regensburg's Altstadt ("Old City") east of the Obere and Untere Bachgasse and West of the Schwanenplatz. It is believed that even in late Roman times it was the seat of a bishop, and St. Boniface re-established a bishopric there in 739.

From about 530 to the first half of the 13th century, it was the capital of Bavaria. In 1135-1146 a bridge across the Danube, the Steinerne Brücke, was built. This stone bridge opened major international trade routes between Northern Europe and Venice, and this started Regensburg's golden age as city of wealthy trading families. Regensburg became the cultural center of southern Germany and was celebrated for its gold work and fabrics.

The remains of the East Tower of Porta Praetoria from Ancient Roman times.

In 845 14 Bohemian princes came to Regensburg to receive baptism there. This was the starting point of Christianisation of the Czech people and the diocese of Regensburg became the mother diocese of Prague. These events had a wide impact on the cultural history of the Czech lands, as consequently they were incorporated in the Roman-catholic not into the slavic-orthodox world. The fact is well remembered and a memorial plate at St John's church (the alleged place of the baptism) was unveiled a few years ago commemorating the incident in Czech and German language.

In 1245 Regensburg became an Imperial Free City and was a trade center before the shifting of trade routes in the late Middle Ages. At the end of the 15th century Regensburg became part of the Bavarian duchy in 1486, but its independence was restored by the Holy Roman emperor in 1496.

The city adopted the Reformation in 1542 and its Town Council remained entirely Lutheran until the incorporation of the city into the principality of Regensburg under Carl von Dalberg in 1803. A significant part of the population stayed Roman Catholic, but Roman Catholics were excluded from civil rights ("Bürgerrecht"). The town of Regensburg must not be confused with the bishopric of Regensburg. Although the Imperial city had adopted Reformation, the town remained the seat of a Roman Catholic bishop and several abbeys. Three of the latter, St. Emmeram, Niedermünster and Obermünster, were estates of their own within the Holy Roman Empire, meaning that they were granted a seat and a vote at the Imperial diet. So there was the unique situation, that the town of Regensburg comprised five independent "states" (in terms of the Holy Roman Empire): the Protestant city itself, the Roman Catholic bishop and the three monasteries mentioned above.

From 1663 to 1806, the city was the permanent seat of the Reichstag (Imperial Diet) of the Holy Roman Empire. Thus Regensburg was one of the central towns of the Holy Roman Empire attracting visitors in large numbers. In 1803 the city lost its status as a free city. It was handed over to the archbishop of Mainz and Archchancellor of the Holy Roman Empire Carl von Dalberg in compensation for Mainz, which had become French under the terms of the Treaty of Lunéville in 1801. Together with Aschaffenburg, Wetzlar and (in 1806) Frankfurt upon Main, Regensburg formed a new state within the Empire. The archbishopric of Mainz was formally transferred to Regensburg. Dalberg united the bishopric, the monsteries and the town itself making up the principality of Regensburg ("Fürstentum Regensburg"). Dalberg strictly modernised public life. Most importantly he awarded equal rights to Protestants and Roman Catholics. In 1810 Carl von Dalberg ceded Regensburg to the kingdom of Bavaria, he himself being compensated by the towns of Fulda and Hanau being given to him under the title of a "Grand Duchy of Frankfurt".

Between April 19 and April 23 1809, Regensburg was the scene of the Battle of Ratisbon between forces commanded by Baron de Coutaud (the 65th Ligne) and retreating Austrian forces. It was eventually overrun after supplies and ammunition ran out. The city suffered severe damage during the fight with about 150 houses being burnt and others being looted.

In contrast to almost all other major German cities, Regensburg little damage from allied air raids in World War II and thus has an almost intact medieval city center, which is listed as an UNESCO world heritage site. The most important cultural loss is the romanesque church of Obermünster, which was completely destroyed in an air raid in March 1945 and never rebuilt. Only the belfry survived. During WWII, Regensburg was an Area Headquarters of Military District XIII (Wehrkreis XIII), under the command of Lieutenant General Bruno Edler von Kiesling auf Kieslingstein. This Area Command was in charge of the military forces of Regensburg, Passau, Straubing, Weiden, and Amberg.

Main sights

Dom - the Regensburg Cathedral

Side-view of the Regensburg Cathedral

City wall tower and gate

St. Emmeram's Abbey now known as Schloss Thurn und Taxis, a huge palace

• The Dom (Cathedral) is a very interesting example of pure German Gothic and counts as the main work of Gothic architecture in Bavaria. It was founded in 1275, and completed in 1634, with the exception of the towers, which were finished in 1869. The interior contains numerous interesting monuments, including one of Peter Vischers' masterpieces. Adjoining the cloisters are two chapels of earlier date than the cathedral itself, one of which, known as the old cathedral, goes back perhaps to the 8th century.
• The Church of St. James, also called Schottenkirche, a plain Romanesque basilica of the 12th century, derives its name from the monastery of Irish Benedictines (Scoti) to which it was attached; the principal doorway is covered with very singular grotesque carvings. It stands next to the Jakobstor, a mediaeval city gate named after it.
• The old parish church of St. Ulrich is a good example of the Transition style of the 13th century, and contains a valuable antiquarian collection. It houses the diocesan museum for religious art.
• Examples of the Romanesque basilica style are the church of Obermünster, dating from 1010, and the abbey church of St. Emmeran, built in the 13th century, and remarkable as one of the few German churches with a detached belfry. The beautiful cloisters of the ancient abbey, one of the oldest in Germany, are still in fair preservation. In 1809 the conventual buildings were converted into a palace for the prince of Thurn and Taxis, hereditary postmaster-general of the Holy Roman Empire.
• Wealthy patrician families competed against each other in who would be able to build the highest tower of the city. In 1260, the Goldener Turm (golden tower) was built in Wahlenstraße.
• The Town Hall, dating in part from the 14th century, contains the rooms occupied by the imperial diet from 1663 to 1806.
• An historical interest also attaches to the Gasthof zum Goldenen Kreuz (Golden Cross Inn), where Charles V. made the acquaintance of Barbara Blomberg, the mother of Don John of Austria (born 1547). The house is also shown where Kepler died in 1630.
• Perhaps the most pleasing modern building in the city is the Gothic villa of the king of Bavaria on the bank of the Danube.
• At Kumpfmühl, in the immediate neighbourhood of the city in 1885, the remains of a Roman camp with an arched gateway was discovered; the latter, known as the Porta Praetoria, was cleared in 1887.
• Among the public institutions of the city are the public library, picture gallery, botanical garden, and the institute for the making of stained glass. The city's Gymnasien (high schools) include an Episcopal clerical seminary, and a school of church music.
• St. Emmeram's Abbey, now known as Schloss Thurn und Taxis, is a huge castle owned by the powerful Thurn und Taxis family.

Economy

Transportation

Notable Residents

• Pope Benedict XVI. (was a professor at the University of Regensburg from 1969 to 1977, and the was classed as honorary professor until 2005)
• The Rev. Dr. Franz Xaver Haberl (one of the most important Roman Catholic musicians in history. Teacher of Perosi.)
• Oskar Schindler (after World War II until his emigration to Argentina)
• Ulrich Schmidl (alleged co-founder of Buenos Aires)
• Ulrich of Zell
• Albrecht Altdorfer ( landscape painter)
• Johannes Kepler ( mathematician)

See also

• Regensburg (district)
• University of Regensburg
• List of mayors of Regensburg

Partner Cities

• Aberdeen, Scotland (United Kingdom), since 1955
• Brixen (Bressanone), (Italy), since 1969
• Clermont-Ferrand (France), since 1969
• Plzeň (Czech Republic), since 1993
• Tempe, Arizona (USA), since 1981
• Odessa (Ukraine), since 1990

External links

• [City web site (in German with international pages)]
• [University web site]
• [Pictures of Regensburg]
• [Photo gallery of Regensburg]

References

World Heritage Sites in Germany