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Visoko

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Visoko
center

Coat of arms

Visoko
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Latitude 43.9889° N
Longitude 18.1781° E
Mayor Munib Alibegović
Surface (km²) 231
Population
(2006)
17,000 (estimated)
Time zone (UTC) UTC+1 Central European Time

Visoko is a city in central Bosnia and Herzegovina with approximately 17,000 residents. It is located on the road between Zenica and Sarajevo. Visoko lies on the Bosna river, where the Fojnička river merges into it. It is administratively part of the Zenica-Doboj Canton of the Federation.

In the census of 1991, the municipality of Visoko had 46,130 residents, of which there were 74.54% Bosniaks, 15.99% Serbs, 4.28% Croats, 3.16% Yugoslavs and 2.04% others. The Visoko town itself had 15,310 inhabitants, while today's number is estimated at 17,000 residents.

Geography

Visoko from Visočica hill
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Visoko from Visočica hill

The 232 square kilometre Visoko municipality covers several characteristic, morphologically distinctive valleys, at altitudes ranging from 400–1,050 metres, in the foothills of Central Bosnian mountains including Ozren, Vranica and Zvijezda. Visoko's natural environment is defined by the river-valleys of the Bosna and the Fojnica; it borders Kiseljak, Busovača, Kakanj, Vareš, Breza, Ilijaš and Ilidža; and the municipality is connected by rail to the Adriatic coast and via the SarajevoZenica magistral road to the north.

History

The Visoko area was once the center of the medieval Bosnian state. During the Ottoman period, Visoko city was founded by Ajas-beg. After Austro-Hungary's annexation of Bosnia, Visoko was given a new but still old style, which is reflected in the oriental style of Visoko that was common throughout the Ottoman rule. In first Yugoslavia Visoko didn't develop much, and in Second World War town itself wasn't especially damaged. Real expanding town would experience in era of communist Yugoslavia. Bosnian war didn't avoid Visoko, which stays in control of Army BiH all four years of war. Today Visoko is a town of rich culture and history, but its economy has lost much of the capacity which it had before the Bosnian war.

Pre-History era

Bosna river
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Bosna river

In Visoko area there is evidence of long continuous occupation, with the first traces of life dating back to 4000 BC. Because two rivers go through Visoko, the Bosna and Fojnica, the area of Visoko was always inhabited. Neolithic emplacements were founded on the shores of the rivers in places known today as Arnautovići, Donje Mođtre, Okolište, Zbilje, Ginje, and Dvor. In these settlements there have been found many tools, money and other objects of that period.

The area of Central Bosnia played in the Neolithic period an important role as a mediator between the settlement areas in Adriatic Coast and the central Balkans. Along the rivers Neretva and Bosna a traffic-geographically preferred scenery about which both metropolitan areas are connected with each other applies. Since 2002 smaller excavations and geophysical prospectus ions in the big settlement hill Okolište are carried out. As the first result of these activities the geomagnetic plan of a 5 house settlement with house lines and connection systems. During the first excavations 6 surfaces of 5 x 5 m were uncovered. Excellent preserved settlement findings as well as typological, radiometric, archaeological and botanical analyses in finding materials of the present excavations point to a big scientific potential of the place belonging in the late Neolithic period.

Illyria and Roman empire

Visoko area was inhabited by the Illyirian tribe of Dassaretae. Roman empire established rule in 9 AD, where they build roads and fortresses like in Kralupi, Seoča and Mokronozi.

Medieval Bosnia

Visoko is named for Visoki Castle and the town of Visoki, which occupied Visočica hill, Podvisoki, Mile (today's Arnautovići), Biskupići and Moštre — together known as Visoko valley. Visoki and its castle were the center of the once powerful medieval Bosnian state. Many historical charters were made and written in Visoko valley, including in castro nostro Vizoka vocatum, the charter of first Bosnian king Tvrtko I Kotromanić, in 1355.

Ban Kulin's plate from 1193 founded in Biskupići
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Ban Kulin's plate from 1193 founded in Biskupići

The Velikog rusaga bosanskog (Big Bosnian Rusag) assembly met at Mile, where Tvrtko I was crowned in 1377 and eventually buried alongside his uncle Stjepan II Kotromanić, the Ban of Bosnia who preceded him. The Medieval Bosnian State Archive was also located there. Mile is today known for its many ornamented tombs of kings, bans and other former rulers. By 1340, Mile was the centre of the church province of Saint Kuzme an Damjan (first mentioned in 1244), and the remains of the church can still be seen at the site. Ban Kulin's Plate (dating from 1193) was discovered at Biskupići, along with the remains of another medieval church, grave sites and the foundations of several other contemporary structures. Moštre's university, founded in 1175 was one of the first in Europe, and was known for its scholarship in medicine, theology, cosmogeny and ethics, although because of its connection to the Bosnian Church nothing remains of its archives, and its existence is documented only by a handful of references in the Vatican archives of its enemy, the Catholic Church.

Medieval remains of Church in Mile
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Medieval remains of Church in Mile

Other notable medieval settlements in the vicinity included Sebinje town, Čajan town in Gračanica — which protected the roads between Visoko and Bobovac — and the town of Bedem i Goduša.

Ottoman rule

Painting of Visoko and mosque from Ottoman rule
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Painting of Visoko and mosque from Ottoman rule

The area of Visoko was conquered by Turkish troops around 1463, and from then Visoko gets its shape as we know it today. Founder of Visoko as city (Visoki and Podvisoki didn't develop any further) was Ajas-beg (pasha) who origin was from Visoko, but converted to Islam from Bogomilism. Visoko was municipality (nahija) at that time. At the head of Visoko municipality was voivod from 1483, which was with serdar (historical name for military commander) representative of military-administration government. In Visoko existed main imam (reisu-l-eimme) and besides their religious duties, they also fulfilled duties to society. Court administration was carried out by naib, and received help for bringing decisions by jury of respected people from Visoko. Judge - naib carried out law court according to sheriat.

Ajas-beg to 1477 built hamam, religious primary school (mekteb), aqueduct, bridge on river Bosna and Madrassa (Islamic high school), and also founded Dervish tekke (monastery), which is preserved still today. In short period Visoko develops it self in administrative center of municipality, heart of trade and crafts, and also as of cultural and spirit life. Visoko by then imbibe look of Islamic oriental style town with all religious and cultural institutions.

Austro-Hungary rule

Older district of Visoko
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Older district of Visoko

Bosnia was officially annexed by Austro-Hungary in 1878 and only small local militia showed resistance and fought. In first years Visoko didn't significantly change it look, and kept its oriental style. In 1882 records say that Visoko is organized settlement with developed trade, offices and other institutions. More frequent contact with western culture directed Visoko’s style in a slightly different way so that most buildings at that time were built in Pseudo-Moorish style. City itself is expanded further by shores of river Fojnica down the main street to Jalija, delta and bridge on river Bosna, so that Tabhana mosque founded itself in Visoko center.

First buildings in this period was train station (1882), court building (1895), Franciscan gymnasium with church (1899 - 1900), main municipality office (today’s museum), primary school (1910) and other minor buildings. All were mainly built in pseudo-Moorish style. Further development of city was prevented by big fire in 1911. In that fire (named jangija after Turkish word which means big fire) 450 houses, stores and other weak (mostly wooden) buildings were burned. Upper city area was completely burned, as well all the houses down main street alongside Beledija, Shadrvan mosque and high school. In spring 1912 rebuilding started, and government decided that all houses would be built with bricks and roof should be covered by tile, but all houses must be built in traditional old Bosnian style. After mayor rebuilt Visoko got new-old style with mix of oriental and western style, and some houses from that period still stands in old district of town.

Kingdom of Yugoslavia, NDH and WW2

Visoko's partisans marking the 7 April, day of liberation of German occupation in WW2
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Visoko's partisans marking the 7 April, day of liberation of German occupation in WW2

After World War One, and defeat of Austria-Hungary, in 1918 Visoko was incorporated in new state Kingdom of Yugoslavia. In the new state, the structure of houses didn't change much, nor the town itself developed. At the breakout of Second World War, Visoko was included in newly formed German sponsored Independent State of Croatia. Throughout the war town didn't experience much damage, nor was it battle front. However, 1205 soldiers from Visoko area was included in Second World War, and 142 of them were killed in whole war. Visoko was liberated on 7 April 1945 by 7, 9 and 17 Krajina brigade from Tenth division of Yugoslav partisan forces. Allied forces were not involved in liberating, but in one occasion allied bombers pursued German and NDH forces and dropped nine bombs in Visoko area destroying strategic targets.

Socialist Yugoslavia

Modern urban settlement Naselje Luke built in late 1980's and early 1990's
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Modern urban settlement Naselje Luke built in late 1980's and early 1990's

After World War Two Visoko, like many other towns in Bosnia, began its industrialisation and further urban expansion. From 1950 town is expanding to extensive lowlands along river Bosna and Fojnica shores, which were mostly used as farms for people living in city area. For ages Visoko was known for its quality (rather than quantity) leather industry, and with new age of industrialisation Visoko gets the biggest leather company in Yugoslavia KTK, which served domestic and foreign market. Beside leather industry Visoko was distinctive for his textile, trade, metal and food industry, making town one of the biggest exporters in former Yugoslavia (by 1991 Visoko had 92,5 million $ of export, while 80 million come off KTK leather industry). For big economy success of Visoko, Josip Broz Tito came to Visoko to see all factories and town itself, which was special moment for all Visoko residents.

The town got all-important institutions like a post office, police and fire stations, health care, hotels, supermarkets, sport stadiums and halls with other residential and commercial buildings. Culture bloomed with the founding of amateur theatre and cinema, and with a town library. Education was too improved by building three new schools, one primary Safvet-beg Bašagić, and two high schools gymnasium and mixed high school center Hazim Šabanović. The late 1980s and early 1990s were years of hasty urbanization and building of whole settlements like Luke which today represents the most densely populated area of Visoko.

In 1953, Visoko's handball club Bosna (also Vitex for one period) was founded which would be town's most successful club and only who competed in first Yugoslavia handball league. Football club is also called Bosna, and was created in 1953 by merging two existing clubs Jadran (founded 1923) and Radnički (founded 1934). Aero club Izet Kurtalić is also one of successful clubs which won numerous gold and other medals in Yugoslavia.

Visoko in Bosnian war

Visoko seen from outside, it encloses modern settlements and surrounding hills, including Visočica on left
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Visoko seen from outside, it encloses modern settlements and surrounding hills, including Visočica on left

On 6 April 1992 exceedingly state was proclaimed, with local Serbs already being armed and positioned around town. Local residents began to arm themselves or were armed by the Bosniak SDA party. Quick reaction of local population prevented capturing town by seizing two local JNA barracks finally on 26 April, where newly local TO (territory defence) patriot forces captured most of the arms in the barracks, which was a turning point at start of Bosnian war in Visoko area. Zimča, a nearby village, which put Visoko in being half encircled by local SDS Serb forces. On 20 June, by the great action of all Visoko units, Zimča was liberated and most of the SDS Serb forces were captured or killed in action. From captured arms Visoko's units give artillery support to the Bosnian soldiers in and around Sarajevo for which they were praised by Sefer Halilović on 24 June.

End of January embarked conflict between Bosnian Croats HVO and Army of Bosnia & Herzegovina (which succeed TO). On 27 January Visoko and neighbouring units prevented the blockade of Fojnica. On 2 November ARBiH units capture nearby HVO held Vareš with no losses. Last days of 1994 brought cease fire between HVO and ARBiH forming united Federation and begin concentrating the fight on the much better armed VRS (Army of Republika Srpska).

View from beneath hill Visočica. It encompass both old (near) and new district (far) of town
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View from beneath hill Visočica. It encompass both old (near) and new district (far) of town

On 15 June Visoko was center of preparations for breaking the blockage on nearby Sarajevo. As ARBiH was forbidden to move across HVO held territory (Kiseljak) this move was performed directly from Visoko, where Serb forces were heavily and long ago fortified (almost four years) with better arms. Action was however executed but with no significant gains, only some portion of territory was liberated but Sarajevo stayed besieged. This big manoeuvre helped ARBiH forces outside Sarajevo to capture whole several towns and villages.

War memorial to killed soldiers of ARBiH who defended Visoko and area
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War memorial to killed soldiers of ARBiH who defended Visoko and area

Finally Dayton agreement removed all front lines who were all 4 years dangerously close to town itself but never changed considerably, and only changes were made by Visoko's forces by capturing nearby Zimča and other minor hills which only prevented town being surrounded which was accomplished. Visoko itself was heavily damaged; especially, economy resources and factories were purposely hit, damaged and destroyed. The damage to economy was about $200 million. For four years of war Visoko area units lost 297 soldiers, 600 were wounded and disabled. 23 soldiers from Visoko area got highest ranking in ARBiH Zlatni Ljiljan (Golden Lilly), and 19 members of police got Golden Police Star. Civilians also suffered, many of them wounded or killed, although throughout whole war Visoko served as center for refuges across Bosnia and Herzegovina, as it was considered well defended by their units, thus Visoko was logistical center of Army BiH because it had industrial capacity and an improvised aerodrome.

Visočica

Visočica is a hill overlooking the town of Visoko. In October 2005, amateur archaeologist Semir Osmanagić claimed that this hill and several surrounding hills concealed pyramids http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/europe/4377290.stm which, if confirmed, would be the oldest pyramids found in Europe. On April 19 2006, digging on one side of the hill revealed large stone blocks reported to show evidence of having been polished AP, ["Experts Find Evidence of Bosnia Pyramid"], 19 April 2006.

Culture and Education

Museum

Homeland museum of Visoko
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Homeland museum of Visoko

In Visoko there is a homeland museum which exhibits the cultural and historic heritage of the Visoko area, and Bosnia. Most of the exhibits are related to the medieval Bosnian state, because the Visoko valley (Mile, Biskupići and Mošte) was once the center of the Bosnian kingdom. In the musem there are many objects and documents from middle ages, one of which is a fragment of the old castle and town of Visoki. In Goduša there is an extension of the museum where there are antique works of old Goduša's crafts, which are mostly woodcarving. The director of museum is professor Senad Hodović.

Health

Visoko has a health centre with polyclinic which was built in 1953.

Education

There is no much detailed data about medieval university in Visoko area, In the place called Bosnia as it was recalled in one of Vatican archives. It was in 1175 when university was first mentioned, high academy of Bosnian religious organization (see Bosnian Church). This university was known for its scholarship in medicine, theology, cosmogeny and ethics. There is four documents that directly or indirectly point to existence of high academy in Visoko Area.

Primary Schools in Visoko area:

Madrassa Osman ef. Redžović which was rebuilt shortly after Bosnian war. It is now modern school with mosque, and has plans for further expansions
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Madrassa Osman ef. Redžović which was rebuilt shortly after Bosnian war. It is now modern school with mosque, and has plans for further expansions

High Schools in Visoko area:

Sports

Handball Hall of Handball club Bosna, most famous club in Visoko
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Handball Hall of Handball club Bosna, most famous club in Visoko

Organized sports began to start with the opening of confessional and state schools. In 1909, the Soko society was formed, and supported many sport activities. The building of the sport center in June 16th 1934 let developing men and women play volleyball, football, and later handball.

This is list of sport clubs existing today:

Music

In nearby Mulići there is Sevdah Institute of Omer Pobrić, whose mission is to preserve Bosniak music, tradition, and sevdalinka. Most of Visoko's music is directed towards local listeners, and is not successful abroad. The most popular band is Codex, which played Rock music.

References

See also

External links

Wikimedia Commons has media related to:
[Special]

Municipalities of the Zenica-Doboj Canton
Breza | Doboj Jug | Kakanj | Maglaj | Olovo | Tešanj | Vareš | Visoko | Zavidovići | Zenica | Žepče | Usora |

Cities and towns of Bosnia and Herzegovina

Brčko District
Brčko
Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina
Banovići | Bihać | Bosanska Krupa | Bosanski Petrovac | Bosansko Grahovo | Breza | Bugojno | Busovača | Cazin | Čapljina | Čitluk | Donji Vakuf | Drvar | Fojnica | Glamoč | Goražde | Gornji Vakuf | Gračanica | Gradačac | Grude | Hadžići | Jablanica | Ilidža | Ilijaš | Jajce | Kakanj | Kalesija | Kiseljak | Kladanj | Ključ | Konjic | Kreševo | Kupres | Livno | Lukavac | Ljubuški | Maglaj | Mostar | Neum | Novi Travnik | Olovo | Odžak | Orašje | Posušje | Prozor | Sanski Most | Sarajevo | Srebrenik | Stolac | Široki Brijeg | Teočak | Tešanj | Tomislavgrad | Travnik | Trnovo | Tuzla| Vareš | Velika Kladuša | Visoko | Vitez | Vogošća | Zavidovići | Zenica | Žepče | Živinice
Republika Srpska
Banja Luka | Bileća | Bijeljina | Čajniče | Čelinac | Brod | Bratunac | Derventa | Doboj | Foča | Gacko | Gradiška | Han Pijesak | Istočno Sarajevo | Jezero | Kalinovik | Kneževo | Kotor Varoš | Kozarska Dubica | Laktaši | Lopare | Ljubinje | Milići | Modriča | Mrkonjić Grad | Nevesinje | Novi Grad | Omarska | Pale | Prijedor | Prnjavor | Rogatica | Rudo | Sokolac | Srbac | Srebrenica | Šamac | Šekovići | Šipovo | Teslić | Trebinje | Trnovo | Ugljevik | Višegrad | Vlasenica | Zvornik

Coordinates: [43.9889° N 18.1781° E]

 


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